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84-01 Jeep Cherokee Upper&Lower Control Arm Stiffeners

US Car Tool 84-01 Jeep Cherokee Lower&Upper Control Arm Stiffeners

 The control arms on your Jeep Cherokee are not designed to take much off-road abuse. Frankly, they were not designed to take much on-road abuse either! The US Car Tool control arm stiffeners add an incredible amount of strength to the factory upper and lower control arms. They weld to the factory control arms add stiffness, support, rigidity and strength.

 The US Car Tool Cherokee Control Arm stiffening system starts by boxing in the control arm. Where the factory version uses a U shape section of sheet metal, the US Car Tool stiffening system fully boxes in the control arm. And we do it using awfully thick steel, more than tripling the total steel thickness of the control arm, plus adding the boxed in structure. It all adds up to an amazingly strong result: Wicked stiff control arms, upper and lowers.

 What is our off-road parts philosophy? That’s simple; nothing overbuilt ever broke. And since the stiffening system welds to your factory (or replacement) control arms, there is no change in steering, suspension, height or chassis geometry. You add strength, you add rigidity, you eliminate an opportunity for failure (at the most inconvenient time – when off-road).

The US Car Tool Jeep Cherokee Control Arm stiffening system support plates are a weld-on solution and designed to be added to your existing (or replacement) upper and lower control arms. Many of our customers find that new control arms are available very inexpensively and simply purchase new control arms and weld the stiffening system control plates to the new control arms and then install them. The stiffening system is an easy weld-on install. It makes a great welding project and is an easy way to add strength to your Jeep Cherokee.

Any Comments or Questions Call Us @ (919) 855-8200

$69.99
Level 2 Chassis Stiffening Kit 63-66 A-Body Plymouth
Dodge, Plymouth A-Body 63-66 

This kit Fits the Plymouth A Bodies from 1963 through 1966. We have another kit for the 63-66 Dodge, the wheelbase is different and requires a different frame connectors!!

Each US Car Tool Chassis Stiffening kit includes:
  • A Pair of Frame Connectors
  • A set of four Hot Rod Torque boxes
  • A pair of front inner fender braces
  • A front lower core support frame brace
Purchasing these chassis stiffening components as a kit will save substantially over purchasing these individually.



FAQ's

Where does the Chassis Stiffening Kit mount?

The kit mounts to the unibody of your A-Body Mopar and adds strength and stiffening to the entire unibody structure. This the most complete kit and adds the most strength available, short of adding a full roll cage to your car. 


Does my car need a Chassis Stiffening Kit?

The factory engineers added stiffening to some ares of the A-Bodies, so they recognized the benefits of the bracing 40+ years ago. We've just got the benefit of seeing how these react to the added chassis stiffening. Any car will benefit from the additional chassis (unibody) stiffening, especially if you are increasing the horsepower or just want you car to feel more "solid" going down the road.

Frame Connectors add strength to the middle portion of the unibody, our design maximizes the strength of these via cantilever beam engineering to increase the Section Modulus of Elasticity. This is twice as strong at half the thickness!!
Torque Boxes distribute the brute forces placed on the Unibody at active suspension mounting locations; think front leaf spring hangers pushing the car forward on a 600hp launch!
Inner Fender Braces add stiffening to a front frame rail system that was prone to twisting.
The front Lower Core Support brace connects the extreme front ends of the front frame rails to help make them stronger and less prone to twisting.

When you remove the flex from your chassis (Unibody) you allow the suspension to work as it is designed. Now you can adjust spring rate, roll resistance (sway bars) and shocks and actually see and feel the difference!


Are these duplicates of the OEM factory Braces?

No, we build a version we refer to as our Hot Rod Brace Upgrade. Some of the stiffening components fit in the factory location, such as the torque boxes and inner fender braces, other components just add strength to known weak spots on the unibody.



Do these require welding?

Yes, installing a Chassis Stiffening Kit requires them to be welded into position.


Will you install the components onto my car?

Yes, our installation center installs all the parts we manufacture for a set low price.
.

Im not sure exactly what I need for my MOPAR suspension upgrade, can you suggest an upgrade to my car?

Yes, we have installed chassis stiffening components on 100's of MOPAR's and have been in business saving old MOPAR's for over 10 years. 
Contact us at (800) 843-2821 with any additional questions - we like to help!!
$714.00
Level 2 Chassis Stiffening Kit 63-66 A-Body Dodge
Dodge, Plymouth A-Body 63-66

This kit
 Fits the Dodge A Bodies from 1963 through 1966. We have another kit for the 63-66 Plymouth, the wheelbase is different and requires a different frame connectors!!

Each US Car Tool Chassis Stiffening kit includes:
  • A Pair of Frame Connectors
  • A set of four Hot Rod Torque boxes
  • A pair of front inner fender braces
  • A front lower core support frame brace
Purchasing these chassis stiffening components as a kit will save substantially over purchasing these individually.



FAQ's

Where does the Chassis Stiffening Kit mount?

The kit mounts to the unibody of your A-Body Mopar and adds strength and stiffening to the entire unibody structure. This the most complete kit and adds the most strength available, short of adding a full roll cage to your car. 


Does my car need a Chassis Stiffening Kit?

The factory engineers added stiffening to some ares of the A-Bodies, so they recognized the benefits of the bracing 40+ years ago. We've just got the benefit of seeing how these react to the added chassis stiffening. Any car will benefit from the additional chassis (unibody) stiffening, especially if you are increasing the horsepower or just want you car to feel more "solid" going down the road.

Frame Connectors add strength to the middle portion of the unibody, our design maximizes the strength of these via cantilever beam engineering to increase the Section Modulus of Elasticity. This is twice as strong at half the thickness!!
Torque Boxes distribute the brute forces placed on the Unibody at active suspension mounting locations; think front leaf spring hangers pushing the car forward on a 600hp launch!
Inner Fender Braces add stiffening to a front frame rail system that was prone to twisting.
The front Lower Core Support brace connects the extreme front ends of the front frame rails to help make them stronger and less prone to twisting.

When you remove the flex from your chassis (Unibody) you allow the suspension to work as it is designed. Now you can adjust spring rate, roll resistance (sway bars) and shocks and actually see and feel the difference!


Are these duplicates of the OEM factory Braces?

No, we build a version we refer to as our Hot Rod Brace Upgrade. Some of the stiffening components fit in the factory location, such as the torque boxes and inner fender braces, other components just add strength to known weak spots on the unibody.



Do these require welding?

Yes, installing a Chassis Stiffening Kit requires them to be welded into position.


Will you install the components onto my car?

Yes, our installation center installs all the parts we manufacture for a set low price.
.

Im not sure exactly what I need for my MOPAR suspension upgrade, can you suggest an upgrade to my car?

Yes, we have installed chassis stiffening components on 100's of MOPAR's and have been in business saving old MOPAR's for over 10 years. 
Contact us at (919) 855-8200 with any additional questions - we like to help!!
$714.00
Level 1 Chassis Stiffening Kit 70-74 E Body Dodge Challenger

70-74 Dodge Challenger E-Body

Get your Stiff started!

Frame connectors and torque boxes add stiffening where the factory engineers knew you needed. Less twist and Unibody flex.
Level 1 Kit Includes:
  1. CNC Cut Frame Connectors (Pair)
  2. Front&Rear Troque Boxes
Save $$ over components purchased separately!
Check out of website for other info at www.uscartool.com
Contact us with any questions at (800) 843-2821

E Body Frame Connector fits 70-74 Dodge Challenger CNC Machine cut from 12ga thick steel (original factory rails are made from 16 gauge material) and CNC bent for a precision fit, these frame rail connectors are designed to be welded in to your existing unibody floor pan. No cutting of the floorpan is required and once welded in, they create a fully boxed frame rail connector that is stronger than the original factory frame rails!! The US Car Tool Frame Connectors include a unique drop floor feature that more than doubles the strength of these frame connectors. Whether you are installing a stock small block or a fire breathing Stroker Hemi, we know how to stiffen your unibody.

Frame connectors Install Instructions

$439.00
Level 1 Chassis Stiffening Kit 66-70 B-Bodies

US Car Tool 66-70 B-Body "Hot Rod" Level 1 Chassis Stiffening Kit 

Fits the 1966-1970 B-Bodies Dodge&Plymouth

Each US Car Tool Chassis Stiffening kit includes:
  • A Pair of Frame Connectors
  • A set of four Hot Rod Torque boxes
Purchasing these chassis stiffening components as a kit will save substantially over purchasing these individually.



FAQ's

Where does the Chassis Stiffening Kit mount?

The kit mounts to the unibody of your Mopar and adds strength and stiffening to the entire unibody structure. This the most complete kit and adds the most strength available, short of adding a full roll cage to your car. 


Does my car need a Chassis Stiffening Kit?

The factory engineers added stiffening to some ares of the B-Bodies, so they recognized the benefits of the bracing 40+ years ago. We've just got the benefit of seeing how these react to the added chassis stiffening. Any car will benefit from the additional chassis (unibody) stiffening, especially if you are increasing the horsepower or just want you car to feel more "solid" going down the road.

Frame Connectors add strength to the middle portion of the unibody, our design maximizes the strength of these via cantilever beam engineering to increase the Section Modulus of Elasticity. This is twice as strong at half the thickness!!
Torque Boxes distribute the brute forces placed on the Unibody at active suspension mounting locations; think front leaf spring hangers pushing the car forward on a 600hp launch!


When you remove the flex from your chassis (Unibody) you allow the suspension to work as it is designed. Now you can adjust spring rate, roll resistance (sway bars) and shocks and actually see and feel the difference!


Are these duplicates of the OEM factory Braces?

No, we build a version we refer to as our Hot Rod Brace Upgrade. Some of the stiffening components fit in the factory location, such as the torque boxes and inner fender braces, other components just add strength to known weak spots on the unibody.



Do these require welding?

Yes, installing a Chassis Stiffening Kit requires them to be welded into position.


Will you install the components onto my car?

Yes, our installation center installs all the parts we manufacture for a set low price.
.

Im not sure exactly what I need for my MOPAR suspension upgrade, can you suggest an upgrade to my car?

Yes, we have installed chassis stiffening components on 100's of MOPAR's and have been in business saving old MOPAR's for over 10 years. 
Contact us at (919) 855-8200 with any additional questions - we like to help!!

$439.00
Level 1 Chassis Stiffening Pack 70-74 Plymouth Cuda E Body
US Car Tool Plymouth Cuda E Body Mopar "Hot Rod" Level 1 Chassis Stiffening Kit

This kit Fits the Plymouth Cuda E Bodies from 1970 through 1974, We have another kit for the Challenger - the wheelbase is different and requires a different frame connectors!!

Each US Car Tool Chassis Stiffening kit includes:
  • A Pair of Frame Connectors
  • A set of four Hot Rod Torque boxes
Purchasing these chassis stiffening components as a kit will save substantially over purchasing these individually.



FAQ's

Where does the Chassis Stiffening Kit mount?

The kit mounts to the unibody of your Cuda and adds strength and stiffening to the entire unibody structure. This the most complete kit and adds the most strength available, short of adding a full roll cage to your car.


Does my car need a Chassis Stiffening Kit?

The factory engineers added stiffening to some ares of the E-Bodies, so they recognized the benefits of the bracing 40+ years ago. We've just got the benefit of seeing how these react to the added chassis stiffening. Any car will benefit from the additional chassis (unibody) stiffening, especially if you are increasing the horsepower or just want you car to feel more "solid" going down the road.

Frame Connectors add strength to the middle portion of the unibody, our design maximizes the strength of these via cantilever beam engineering to increase the Section Modulus of Elasticity. This is twice as strong at half the thickness!!
Torque Boxes distribute the brute forces placed on the Unibody at active suspension mounting locations; think front leaf spring hangers pushing the car forward on a 600hp launch!


When you remove the flex from your chassis (Unibody) you allow the suspension to work as it is designed. Now you can adjust spring rate, roll resistance (sway bars) and shocks and actually see and feel the difference!


Are these duplicates of the OEM factory Braces?

No, we build a version we refer to as our Hot Rod Brace Upgrade. Some of the stiffening components fit in the factory location, such as the torque boxes and inner fender braces, other components just add strength to known weak spots on the unibody.



Do these require welding?

Yes, installing a Chassis Stiffening Kit requires them to be welded into position.


Will you install the components onto my car?

Yes, our installation center installs all the parts we manufacture for a set low price.
.

Im not sure exactly what I need for my MOPAR suspension upgrade, can you suggest an upgrade to my car?

Yes, we have installed chassis stiffening components on 100's of MOPAR's and have been in business saving old MOPAR's for over 10 years.
Contact us at (919) 855-8200 with any additional questions - we like to help!!

Here is a YouTube Video of a 1970 E Body after installing our Chassis Stiffening Kit Components, this one highlights just how much stiffer the front frame rail sub system gets after the inner fender brace kit is installed,
$439.00
Level 1 Chassis Stiffening  Kit 67-75 Dart/Valiant A-Body
US Car Tool 67-75 Dart/Valiant A-Body "Hot Rod" Level 1 Chassis Stiffening Kit 

This kit Fits the 1967-1975 Dart&Valiant A-Bodies, We have another kit for the Duster - the wheelbase is different and requires a different frame connectors!!

Each US Car Tool Chassis Stiffening kit includes:
  • A Pair of Frame Connectors
  • A set of four Hot Rod Torque boxes
Purchasing these chassis stiffening components as a kit will save substantially over purchasing these individually.



FAQ's

Where does the Chassis Stiffening Kit mount?

The kit mounts to the unibody of your Mopar and adds strength and stiffening to the entire unibody structure. This the most complete kit and adds the most strength available, short of adding a full roll cage to your car. 


Does my car need a Chassis Stiffening Kit?

The factory engineers added stiffening to some ares of the A-Bodies, so they recognized the benefits of the bracing 40+ years ago. We've just got the benefit of seeing how these react to the added chassis stiffening. Any car will benefit from the additional chassis (unibody) stiffening, especially if you are increasing the horsepower or just want you car to feel more "solid" going down the road.

Frame Connectors add strength to the middle portion of the unibody, our design maximizes the strength of these via cantilever beam engineering to increase the Section Modulus of Elasticity. This is twice as strong at half the thickness!!
Torque Boxes distribute the brute forces placed on the Unibody at active suspension mounting locations; think front leaf spring hangers pushing the car forward on a 600hp launch!


When you remove the flex from your chassis (Unibody) you allow the suspension to work as it is designed. Now you can adjust spring rate, roll resistance (sway bars) and shocks and actually see and feel the difference!


Are these duplicates of the OEM factory Braces?

No, we build a version we refer to as our Hot Rod Brace Upgrade. Some of the stiffening components fit in the factory location, such as the torque boxes and inner fender braces, other components just add strength to known weak spots on the unibody.



Do these require welding?

Yes, installing a Chassis Stiffening Kit requires them to be welded into position.


Will you install the components onto my car?

Yes, our installation center installs all the parts we manufacture for a set low price.
.

Im not sure exactly what I need for my MOPAR suspension upgrade, can you suggest an upgrade to my car?

Yes, we have installed chassis stiffening components on 100's of MOPAR's and have been in business saving old MOPAR's for over 10 years. 
Contact us at (919) 855-8200 with any additional questions - we like to help!!
$439.00
Level 1 Chassis Stiffening Kit 70-75 Duster A-Body
US Car Tool 70-75 Duster A-Body "Hot Rod" Level 1 Chassis Stiffening Kit 

This kit Fits the 1970-1975 Duster A-Bodies, We have another kit for the Dart/Valiant - the wheelbase is different and requires a different frame connectors!!

Each US Car Tool Chassis Stiffening kit includes:
  • A Pair of Frame Connectors
  • A set of four Hot Rod Torque boxes
Purchasing these chassis stiffening components as a kit will save substantially over purchasing these individually.



FAQ's

Where does the Chassis Stiffening Kit mount?

The kit mounts to the unibody of your Mopar and adds strength and stiffening to the entire unibody structure. This the most complete kit and adds the most strength available, short of adding a full roll cage to your car. 


Does my car need a Chassis Stiffening Kit?

The factory engineers added stiffening to some ares of the A-Bodies, so they recognized the benefits of the bracing 40+ years ago. We've just got the benefit of seeing how these react to the added chassis stiffening. Any car will benefit from the additional chassis (unibody) stiffening, especially if you are increasing the horsepower or just want you car to feel more "solid" going down the road.

Frame Connectors add strength to the middle portion of the unibody, our design maximizes the strength of these via cantilever beam engineering to increase the Section Modulus of Elasticity. This is twice as strong at half the thickness!!
Torque Boxes distribute the brute forces placed on the Unibody at active suspension mounting locations; think front leaf spring hangers pushing the car forward on a 600hp launch!


When you remove the flex from your chassis (Unibody) you allow the suspension to work as it is designed. Now you can adjust spring rate, roll resistance (sway bars) and shocks and actually see and feel the difference!


Are these duplicates of the OEM factory Braces?

No, we build a version we refer to as our Hot Rod Brace Upgrade. Some of the stiffening components fit in the factory location, such as the torque boxes and inner fender braces, other components just add strength to known weak spots on the unibody.



Do these require welding?

Yes, installing a Chassis Stiffening Kit requires them to be welded into position.


Will you install the components onto my car?

Yes, our installation center installs all the parts we manufacture for a set low price.
.

Im not sure exactly what I need for my MOPAR suspension upgrade, can you suggest an upgrade to my car?

Yes, we have installed chassis stiffening components on 100's of MOPAR's and have been in business saving old MOPAR's for over 10 years. 
Contact us at (919) 855-8200 with any additional questions - we like to help!!
$439.00
Level 1 Chassis Stiffening Kit 71-72 Demon A-Body
US Car Tool 70-71 Demon A-Body "Hot Rod" Level 1 Chassis Stiffening Kit 

This kit Fits the 1970-1971 Demon A-Bodies, We have another kit for the Dart/Valiant&Duster - the wheelbase is different and requires a different frame connectors!!

Each US Car Tool Chassis Stiffening kit includes:
  • A Pair of Frame Connectors
  • A set of four Hot Rod Torque boxes
Purchasing these chassis stiffening components as a kit will save substantially over purchasing these individually.



FAQ's

Where does the Chassis Stiffening Kit mount?

The kit mounts to the unibody of your Mopar and adds strength and stiffening to the entire unibody structure. This the most complete kit and adds the most strength available, short of adding a full roll cage to your car. 


Does my car need a Chassis Stiffening Kit?

The factory engineers added stiffening to some ares of the A-Bodies, so they recognized the benefits of the bracing 40+ years ago. We've just got the benefit of seeing how these react to the added chassis stiffening. Any car will benefit from the additional chassis (unibody) stiffening, especially if you are increasing the horsepower or just want you car to feel more "solid" going down the road.

Frame Connectors add strength to the middle portion of the unibody, our design maximizes the strength of these via cantilever beam engineering to increase the Section Modulus of Elasticity. This is twice as strong at half the thickness!!
Torque Boxes distribute the brute forces placed on the Unibody at active suspension mounting locations; think front leaf spring hangers pushing the car forward on a 600hp launch!


When you remove the flex from your chassis (Unibody) you allow the suspension to work as it is designed. Now you can adjust spring rate, roll resistance (sway bars) and shocks and actually see and feel the difference!


Are these duplicates of the OEM factory Braces?

No, we build a version we refer to as our Hot Rod Brace Upgrade. Some of the stiffening components fit in the factory location, such as the torque boxes and inner fender braces, other components just add strength to known weak spots on the unibody.



Do these require welding?

Yes, installing a Chassis Stiffening Kit requires them to be welded into position.


Will you install the components onto my car?

Yes, our installation center installs all the parts we manufacture for a set low price.
.

Im not sure exactly what I need for my MOPAR suspension upgrade, can you suggest an upgrade to my car?

Yes, we have installed chassis stiffening components on 100's of MOPAR's and have been in business saving old MOPAR's for over 10 years. 
Contact us at (919) 855-8200 with any additional questions - we like to help!!
$439.00
Level 1 Chassis Stiffening Kit 62-65 Dodge Plymouth B-Body (except 63 and 64 Dodge)

US Car Tool Level 1 Chassis Stiffening Kit

Fits 62-65 Dodge Plymouth B-Body (except 63 & 64 Dodge)

Get your Stiff started!




Frame connectors and torque boxes add stiffening where the factory engineers knew you needed. Less twist and Unibody flex.

Level 1 Kit Includes:
  1. CNC Cut Frame Connectors (Pair)
  2. Front&Rear Torque Boxes
Save $$ over components purchased separately!

Check out of website for other info at www.uscartool.com
Contact us with any questions at (919) 855-8200
$439.00
Level 1 Chassis Stiffening Kit 63-64 Dodge Only B-Body

US Car Tool Level 1 Chassis Stiffening Kit

Fits 63&64 Dodge Only B-Body

Get your Stiff started!




Frame connectors and torque boxes add stiffening where the factory engineers knew you needed. Less twist and Unibody flex.

Level 1 Kit Includes:
  1. CNC Cut Frame Connectors (Pair)
  2. Front&Rear Torque Boxes
Save $$ over components purchased separately!

Check out of website for other info at www.uscartool.com
Contact us with any questions at (919) 855-8200
$439.00
Level 1 Chassis Stiffening Kit 71-72 B-Bodies

US Car Tool Level 1 Chassis Stiffening Kit

Fits 71-72 Dodge/Plymouth B-Bodies

Get your Stiff started!




Frame connectors and torque boxes add stiffening where the factory engineers knew you needed. Less twist and Unibody flex.

Level 1 Kit Includes:
  1. CNC Cut Frame Connectors (Pair)
  2. Front&Rear Torque Boxes
Save $$ over components purchased separately!

Check out of website for other info at www.uscartool.com
Contact us with any questions at (919) 855-8200
$439.00
Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit 66-70 B-Bodies Dodge
Fits: 1966-70 Charger & Coronet
$1,152.00
Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit 67-75 A-Bodies (Dart&Valiant)
US Car Tool Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit

Kick Asphalt! Max stiff & Max tire. Max Power to accelerate and stop.

Max your chassis and max your tire combination. For straight line performance, autocross or canyon carving, the Level 3 kit goes to the Max! Get all the go and whoa to move your car, not twist it. When you want Max Power and Max Traction, get Max Stiff. Add Level 3 and go kick some Asphalt.


Level 3
Chassis Stiffening kit includes:
  • A Pair of CNC Frame Connectors (complete set of 2)
  • Front and rear torque boxes (complete set of 4)
  • A pair of front inner fender braces (complete set of 2)
  • A front lower core support stiffener
  • Rear spring relocation kit (complete kit for both sides)
  • Mini tub kit (complete kit to add up to 4" per side tire clearance)
This kit Fits the Dodge, Plymouth A Bodies from 1967 through 1975 (Dart, Valiant, Barracuda), We have another kit for the 70-75 Duster/Dart Sport - the wheelbase is different and requires a different frame connectors!!

Save $89 over individual component pricing by purchasing a level 3 kit.


FAQ's

Where does the Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit mount?

The kit mounts to the unibody of your A-Body Mopar and adds strength and stiffening to the entire unibody structure. This the most complete kit and adds the most strength available, short of adding a full roll cage to your car.


Does my car need a Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit?

The factory engineers added stiffening to some ares of the A-Bodies, so they recognized the benefits of the bracing 40+ years ago. We've just got the benefit of seeing how these react to the added chassis stiffening. Any car will benefit from the additional chassis (unibody) stiffening, especially if you are increasing the horsepower or just want you car to feel more "solid" going down the road.

Frame Connectors add strength to the middle portion of the unibody, our design maximizes the strength of these via cantilever beam engineering to increase the Section Modulus of Elasticity. This is twice as strong at half the thickness!!
Torque Boxes distribute the brute forces placed on the Unibody at active suspension mounting locations; think front leaf spring hangers pushing the car forward on a 600hp launch!
Inner Fender Braces add stiffening to a front frame rail system that was prone to twisting.
The front Lower Core Support brace connects the extreme front ends of the front frame rails to help make them stronger and less prone to twisting.

When you remove the flex from your chassis (Unibody) you allow the suspension to work as it is designed. Now you can adjust spring rate, roll resistance (sway bars) and shocks and actually see and feel the difference!

The Level 3 kits goes further by moving your leaf springs inboard 3" per side and adding 4" of  wheelhouse tire area for Maximum Tire size and width.


Are these duplicates of the OEM factory Braces?

No, we build a version we refer to as our Hot Rod Brace Upgrade. Some of the stiffening components fit in the factory location, such as the torque boxes and inner fender braces, other components just add strength to known weak spots on the unibody.



Do these require welding?

Yes, installing a Chassis Stiffening Kit requires them to be welded into position.


Will you install the components onto my car?

Yes, our installation center installs all the parts we manufacture for a set low price.
.

Im not sure exactly what I need for my MOPAR suspension upgrade, can you suggest an upgrade to my car?

Yes, we have installed chassis stiffening components on 100's of MOPAR's and have been in business saving old MOPAR's for over 10 years.
Contact us at (919) 855-8200 with any additional questions - we like to help!!
$1,152.00
Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit 70-75 A-Bodies Duster&Dart Sport
US Car Tool Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit

Kick Asphalt! Max stiff & Max tire. Max Power to accelerate and stop.

Max your chassis and max your tire combination. For straight line performance, autocross or canyon carving, the Level 3 kit goes to the Max! Get all the go and whoa to move your car, not twist it. When you want Max Power and Max Traction, get Max Stiff. Add Level 3 and go kick some Asphalt.


Level 3
Chassis Stiffening kit includes:
  • A Pair of CNC Frame Connectors (complete set of 2)
  • Front and rear torque boxes (complete set of 4)
  • A pair of front inner fender braces (complete set of 2)
  • A front lower core support stiffener
  • Rear spring relocation kit (complete kit for both sides)
  • Mini tub kit (complete kit to add up to 4" per side tire clearance)
This kit Fits the Dodge, Plymouth A Bodies from 1970 through 1975 (Duster&Dart Sport)

Save $89 over individual component pricing by purchasing a level 3 kit.


FAQ's

Where does the Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit mount?

The kit mounts to the unibody of your A-Body Mopar and adds strength and stiffening to the entire unibody structure. This the most complete kit and adds the most strength available, short of adding a full roll cage to your car.


Does my car need a Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit?

The factory engineers added stiffening to some ares of the A-Bodies, so they recognized the benefits of the bracing 40+ years ago. We've just got the benefit of seeing how these react to the added chassis stiffening. Any car will benefit from the additional chassis (unibody) stiffening, especially if you are increasing the horsepower or just want you car to feel more "solid" going down the road.

Frame Connectors add strength to the middle portion of the unibody, our design maximizes the strength of these via cantilever beam engineering to increase the Section Modulus of Elasticity. This is twice as strong at half the thickness!!
Torque Boxes distribute the brute forces placed on the Unibody at active suspension mounting locations; think front leaf spring hangers pushing the car forward on a 600hp launch!
Inner Fender Braces add stiffening to a front frame rail system that was prone to twisting.
The front Lower Core Support brace connects the extreme front ends of the front frame rails to help make them stronger and less prone to twisting.

When you remove the flex from your chassis (Unibody) you allow the suspension to work as it is designed. Now you can adjust spring rate, roll resistance (sway bars) and shocks and actually see and feel the difference!

The Level 3 kits goes further by moving your leaf springs inboard 3" per side and adding 4" of  wheelhouse tire area for Maximum Tire size and width.


Are these duplicates of the OEM factory Braces?

No, we build a version we refer to as our Hot Rod Brace Upgrade. Some of the stiffening components fit in the factory location, such as the torque boxes and inner fender braces, other components just add strength to known weak spots on the unibody.



Do these require welding?

Yes, installing a Chassis Stiffening Kit requires them to be welded into position.


Will you install the components onto my car?

Yes, our installation center installs all the parts we manufacture for a set low price.
.

Im not sure exactly what I need for my MOPAR suspension upgrade, can you suggest an upgrade to my car?

Yes, we have installed chassis stiffening components on 100's of MOPAR's and have been in business saving old MOPAR's for over 10 years.
Contact us at (919) 855-8200 with any additional questions - we like to help!!
$1,152.00
Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit 63-65 B-Bodies (Dodge&Plymouth)
US Car Tool Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit

Kick Asphalt! Max stiff & Max tire. Max Power to accelerate and stop.

Max your chassis and max your tire combination. For straight line performance, autocross or canyon carving, the Level 3 kit goes to the Max! Get all the go and whoa to move your car, not twist it. When you want Max Power and Max Traction, get Max Stiff. Add Level 3 and go kick some Asphalt.


Level 3
Chassis Stiffening kit includes:
  • A Pair of CNC Frame Connectors (complete set of 2)
  • Front and rear torque boxes (complete set of 4)
  • A pair of front inner fender braces (complete set of 2)
  • A front lower core support stiffener
  • Rear spring relocation kit (complete kit for both sides)
  • Mini tub kit (complete kit to add up to 4" per side tire clearance)
This kit Fits the Dodge, Plymouth B Bodies from 1963 through 1965 (Dodge&Plymouth)

Save $89 over individual component pricing by purchasing a level 3 kit.


FAQ's

Where does the Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit mount?

The kit mounts to the unibody of your B-Body Mopar and adds strength and stiffening to the entire unibody structure. This the most complete kit and adds the most strength available, short of adding a full roll cage to your car.


Does my car need a Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit?

The factory engineers added stiffening to some ares of the A-Bodies, so they recognized the benefits of the bracing 40+ years ago. We've just got the benefit of seeing how these react to the added chassis stiffening. Any car will benefit from the additional chassis (unibody) stiffening, especially if you are increasing the horsepower or just want you car to feel more "solid" going down the road.

Frame Connectors add strength to the middle portion of the unibody, our design maximizes the strength of these via cantilever beam engineering to increase the Section Modulus of Elasticity. This is twice as strong at half the thickness!!
Torque Boxes distribute the brute forces placed on the Unibody at active suspension mounting locations; think front leaf spring hangers pushing the car forward on a 600hp launch!
Inner Fender Braces add stiffening to a front frame rail system that was prone to twisting.
The front Lower Core Support brace connects the extreme front ends of the front frame rails to help make them stronger and less prone to twisting.

When you remove the flex from your chassis (Unibody) you allow the suspension to work as it is designed. Now you can adjust spring rate, roll resistance (sway bars) and shocks and actually see and feel the difference!

The Level 3 kits goes further by moving your leaf springs inboard 3" per side and adding 4" of  wheelhouse tire area for Maximum Tire size and width.


Are these duplicates of the OEM factory Braces?

No, we build a version we refer to as our Hot Rod Brace Upgrade. Some of the stiffening components fit in the factory location, such as the torque boxes and inner fender braces, other components just add strength to known weak spots on the unibody.



Do these require welding?

Yes, installing a Chassis Stiffening Kit requires them to be welded into position.


Will you install the components onto my car?

Yes, our installation center installs all the parts we manufacture for a set low price.
.

Im not sure exactly what I need for my MOPAR suspension upgrade, can you suggest an upgrade to my car?

Yes, we have installed chassis stiffening components on 100's of MOPAR's and have been in business saving old MOPAR's for over 10 years.
Contact us at (919) 855-8200 with any additional questions - we like to help!!
$1,152.00
Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit 63&64 B-Bodies (Dodge Only)
US Car Tool Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit

Kick Asphalt! Max stiff & Max tire. Max Power to accelerate and stop.

Max your chassis and max your tire combination. For straight line performance, autocross or canyon carving, the Level 3 kit goes to the Max! Get all the go and whoa to move your car, not twist it. When you want Max Power and Max Traction, get Max Stiff. Add Level 3 and go kick some Asphalt.


Level 3
Chassis Stiffening kit includes:
  • A Pair of CNC Frame Connectors (complete set of 2)
  • Front and rear torque boxes (complete set of 4)
  • A pair of front inner fender braces (complete set of 2)
  • A front lower core support stiffener
  • Rear spring relocation kit (complete kit for both sides)
  • Mini tub kit (complete kit to add up to 4" per side tire clearance)
This kit Fits the Dodge, Plymouth B Bodies from 1963&1964 Dodge Only

Save $89 over individual component pricing by purchasing a level 3 kit.


FAQ's

Where does the Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit mount?

The kit mounts to the unibody of your B-Body Mopar and adds strength and stiffening to the entire unibody structure. This the most complete kit and adds the most strength available, short of adding a full roll cage to your car.


Does my car need a Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit?

The factory engineers added stiffening to some ares of the A-Bodies, so they recognized the benefits of the bracing 40+ years ago. We've just got the benefit of seeing how these react to the added chassis stiffening. Any car will benefit from the additional chassis (unibody) stiffening, especially if you are increasing the horsepower or just want you car to feel more "solid" going down the road.

Frame Connectors add strength to the middle portion of the unibody, our design maximizes the strength of these via cantilever beam engineering to increase the Section Modulus of Elasticity. This is twice as strong at half the thickness!!
Torque Boxes distribute the brute forces placed on the Unibody at active suspension mounting locations; think front leaf spring hangers pushing the car forward on a 600hp launch!
Inner Fender Braces add stiffening to a front frame rail system that was prone to twisting.
The front Lower Core Support brace connects the extreme front ends of the front frame rails to help make them stronger and less prone to twisting.

When you remove the flex from your chassis (Unibody) you allow the suspension to work as it is designed. Now you can adjust spring rate, roll resistance (sway bars) and shocks and actually see and feel the difference!

The Level 3 kits goes further by moving your leaf springs inboard 3" per side and adding 4" of  wheelhouse tire area for Maximum Tire size and width.


Are these duplicates of the OEM factory Braces?

No, we build a version we refer to as our Hot Rod Brace Upgrade. Some of the stiffening components fit in the factory location, such as the torque boxes and inner fender braces, other components just add strength to known weak spots on the unibody.



Do these require welding?

Yes, installing a Chassis Stiffening Kit requires them to be welded into position.


Will you install the components onto my car?

Yes, our installation center installs all the parts we manufacture for a set low price.
.

Im not sure exactly what I need for my MOPAR suspension upgrade, can you suggest an upgrade to my car?

Yes, we have installed chassis stiffening components on 100's of MOPAR's and have been in business saving old MOPAR's for over 10 years.
Contact us at (919) 855-8200 with any additional questions - we like to help!!
$1,152.00
Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit 71-72 Demon
US Car Tool Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit

Kick Asphalt! Max stiff & Max tire. Max Power to accelerate and stop.

Max your chassis and max your tire combination. For straight line performance, autocross or canyon carving, the Level 3 kit goes to the Max! Get all the go and whoa to move your car, not twist it. When you want Max Power and Max Traction, get Max Stiff. Add Level 3 and go kick some Asphalt.


Level 3
Chassis Stiffening kit includes:
  • A Pair of CNC Frame Connectors (complete set of 2)
  • Front and rear torque boxes (complete set of 4)
  • A pair of front inner fender braces (complete set of 2)
  • A front lower core support stiffener
  • Rear spring relocation kit (complete kit for both sides)
  • Mini tub kit (complete kit to add up to 4" per side tire clearance)
This kit Fits the Dodge, Plymouth A Bodies from 1970&1971 Dodge Demon

Save $89 over individual component pricing by purchasing a level 3 kit.


FAQ's

Where does the Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit mount?

The kit mounts to the unibody of your A-Body Mopar and adds strength and stiffening to the entire unibody structure. This the most complete kit and adds the most strength available, short of adding a full roll cage to your car.


Does my car need a Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit?

The factory engineers added stiffening to some ares of the A-Bodies, so they recognized the benefits of the bracing 40+ years ago. We've just got the benefit of seeing how these react to the added chassis stiffening. Any car will benefit from the additional chassis (unibody) stiffening, especially if you are increasing the horsepower or just want you car to feel more "solid" going down the road.

Frame Connectors add strength to the middle portion of the unibody, our design maximizes the strength of these via cantilever beam engineering to increase the Section Modulus of Elasticity. This is twice as strong at half the thickness!!
Torque Boxes distribute the brute forces placed on the Unibody at active suspension mounting locations; think front leaf spring hangers pushing the car forward on a 600hp launch!
Inner Fender Braces add stiffening to a front frame rail system that was prone to twisting.
The front Lower Core Support brace connects the extreme front ends of the front frame rails to help make them stronger and less prone to twisting.

When you remove the flex from your chassis (Unibody) you allow the suspension to work as it is designed. Now you can adjust spring rate, roll resistance (sway bars) and shocks and actually see and feel the difference!

The Level 3 kits goes further by moving your leaf springs inboard 3" per side and adding 4" of  wheelhouse tire area for Maximum Tire size and width.


Are these duplicates of the OEM factory Braces?

No, we build a version we refer to as our Hot Rod Brace Upgrade. Some of the stiffening components fit in the factory location, such as the torque boxes and inner fender braces, other components just add strength to known weak spots on the unibody.



Do these require welding?

Yes, installing a Chassis Stiffening Kit requires them to be welded into position.


Will you install the components onto my car?

Yes, our installation center installs all the parts we manufacture for a set low price.
.

Im not sure exactly what I need for my MOPAR suspension upgrade, can you suggest an upgrade to my car?

Yes, we have installed chassis stiffening components on 100's of MOPAR's and have been in business saving old MOPAR's for over 10 years.
Contact us at (919) 855-8200 with any additional questions - we like to help!!
$1,152.00
Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit 70-74 E-Body Dodge
Fits: 1970-74 Dodge Challenger
$1,208.00
Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit 70-74 E-Body Plymouth
Fits 1970-74 Plymouth Barracuda & Cuda
$1,208.00
Level 3 Chassis Stiffening Kit 66-70 B-Bodies Plymouth
Fits: 1966-70 Plymouth Satellite & Road Runner
$1,152.00
66-70 B-Body Frame Connectors
B Body Frame Connector fits all 66-70 Mopar B Bodies

CNC Machine cut from 12ga steel (original factory rails are made from 16 gauge material) and CNC bent for a precision fit, these frame rail connectors are designed to be welded in to your existing unibody floor pan. No cutting of the floorpan is required and once welded in, they create a fully boxed frame rail connector that is stronger than the original factory frame rails!!
$208.00
70-74 E Body Frame Connector for Dodge Challenger

70-74 Dodge Challenger Weld-in Frame Rail Connectors

If you have ever wanted to take your classic MOPAR to the next level of chassis updates, you know you need frame rail connectors. The US Car Tool frame rail connectors are custom fit to the floorpan of your Mopar.

These frame rail connectors are precision CNC Machine cut and CNC bent to form a 3 sided box. When they are welded to the floorpan of your Mopar Unibody, you create a complete boxed in frame rail section that is stronger than the original frame raisl on your car. these are made from 12 gauge steel and will create the strongest chassis you can have for your Mopar (without going to a full tube style chassis).

These frame rail connectors install from underneath your car - no need to cut a slice out of your floor! For years, racers have been cutting a 2" wide slice out of the floor and installing a section of 2x4 box tubing that is then welded to the floor as a frame rail connector. When done this way, the connectors are very strong, since the entire floor is connected to the frame. The new US Car Tool frame rail connectors give you the same "welded to the floor" boxed strength, but they do not intrude into the passenger compartment. This means you will have no problems installing carpet or your seats!

Truly the best Challenger frame connectors you can add!

Our frame connectors are CAD designed to be a 100% perfect fit to your floopan. They are CNC Machine cut from 12 gauge steel (almost 1/8" thick) and then CNC bent to create that perfect fit that US Car Tool products are known for.

Whether you are making your car the Ultimate 'G' machine, a 1/4 mile star or just a great street brawler - these frame connectors will help that Mopar unibody stopping twisting (which wastes power) and help get every available horsepower to the ground!

This version fits Dodge E body cars (Challenger) from 1970 to 1974

Works With:

  • Small blocks, Big Blocks and Hemi
  • Automatics (727 & 904) and 4-speed
  • Convertibles and Hemi cars
  • With or without factory torque boxes

The US Car Tool frame connectors are available now, they are delivered in a plain steel finish, ready for welding to your Mopar Unibody amd include complete instructions.


FAQ's

Where do the Frame Connectors mount?

The US Car Tool frame connectors are designed to connect the front and rear frame rail segments on a unibody chassis and tie the floorpan into the new structure. They mount from the leading edge of the rear frame rail where it meets the floorpan and continue forward to the torsion bar crossmember. The add the missing piece between the factory frame rail sections, incorporate the floorpan (technically a shear plane) as an integral part of the new support structure. This incorporates structural parts of your unibody and makes these key areas even stronger!!


What does a Frame Connector do?

Frame Connectors add additional stiffness to the factory unibody. As originally designed, the unibody spreads the suspension and drivetrain forces from the frame rails to the rocker sills and floorpan (a shear plane). By adding frame connectors that are CNC Machine cut to the contour of the floorpan, you can add an additional stiffner that ties the floorpan into the existing frame structure and adds a structure between the front and rear frame stubs.

This will make the unibody stiffer both to bending forces (front to rear as you might experience when the front tire hits a bump) as well as torsion twisting forces, such as you experience when accelerating and the drivetrain is attempting to "twist" the unibody

Making the unibody stiffer and stronger aids the suspension in doing its' job of keeping the tires in contact with the ground.


Why are the US Car Tool Frame Connectors better?

The US Car Tool Frame Connectors add an entire structure to your unibody. It is the unique shape of the structure and the fact that it is incorporated into the existing shear plane (floorboard) that provides the additional strength over classic square or rectangular tubes attached at the ends. This is based on is the same engineering principles that resulted in unibody cars being both stronger and less expensive to produce than body-on-frame style automobiles.

The engineering measure of this increased strength is referred to as the modulus of elasticity. The new structure created by the US Car Tool frame connectors is substantially greater than a simple square tube, both in resistance to bending and to torsional twist. In fact, it would take a square tube over 3 times as thick to offer the same bending strength and that tube would still NOT be as strong in resisting twist forces!


Does my car need Frame Connectors?

Any unibody automobile will benefit from the increase in stiffness and rigidity by installing frame connectors. Some cars, such as convertibles that lack the inherent strength of a "roof", will see a tremendous increase in on-the-road feel. Any car will benefit from the additional chassis (unibody) stiffening, especially if you are increasing the horsepower or just want you car to feel more "solid" going down the road.

Planning to race your on a dragstrip with some "extra" horsepower? Watch how much better you can launch your car when the power is applied to the rear wheels in stead of spent twisting the chassis! Interested in having a car that can turn corners with the best of them? Watch how much better your suspension can do its job once you stop the entire unibody from twisting and let the springs do the job as they where designed for!

Are these duplicates of the OEM factory Frame Connectors?

No, the OEM manufactures never included frame connectors. We are told by customers, that the US Car Tool frame connectors look like they belong and have such a factory appearance that hardly anyone notices they are an aftermarket addition!


Do these require welding?

Yes, installing US Car Tool frame connectors requires them to be welded into position. Some minor adjusting and fabrication can be expected with weld-on parts, but these are designed to fit your unique unibody.

Please call or write with additional questions. 919-855-8200

** Dealer Inquires Invited - if you would like to sell this item to your customers, please drop me an e-mail **

$208.00
70-74 E Body Frame Connector for Plymouth Cuda
E Body Frame Connector fits 70-74 Plymouth Barracuda CNC Machine cut from 12ga thick steel (original factory rails are made from 16 gauge material) and CNC bent for a precision fit, these frame rail connectors are designed to be welded in to your existing unibody floor pan. No cutting of the floorpan is required and once welded in, they create a fully boxed frame rail connector that is stronger than the original factory frame rails!! The US Car Tool Frame Connectors include a unique drop floor feature that more than doubles the strength of these frame connectors. Whether you are installing a stock small block or a fire breathing Stroker Hemi, we know how to stiffen your unibody.

Frame connectors Install Instructions

$208.00
67-75 Mopar A Body Frame Connectors
A Body Frame Connector fits most 67-75 Mopar A Bodies. All wheelbases (108" and 111" from 1967-1969 and most 111" wheelbase from 1970-1975).

These frame connectors fit Dart, Valiant, Barracuda from 1967-1975. If your car is a 108" wheelbase car from 1970-1975 (such as a duster or dart sport), you should use the USCT1M1105 frame connectors.

CNC Machine cut from 12ga thick steel (original factory rails are made from 16 gauge material) and CNC bent for a precision fit, these frame rail connectors are designed to be welded in to your existing unibody floor pan. No cutting of the floorpan is required and once welded in, they create a fully boxed frame rail connector that is stronger than the original factory frame rails!! A Unique design fits both Dodge cars (67-75) and Early Plymouth A Bodies (67-69). Requires welding. Look under image gallery for more detailed pictures of installation.

Installation Pictures

$208.00
70-75 Mopar A Body Duster Frame Connectors
A Body Frame Connector fits all 70-75 Mopar A Bodies 108" Wheelbase

These frame connectors fit 70-75 Duster Only!

CNC Machine cut from 12ga thick steel (original factory rails are made from 16 gauge material) and CNC bent for a precision fit, these frame rail connectors are designed to be welded in to your existing unibody floor pan. No cutting of the floorpan is required and once welded in, they create a fully boxed frame rail connector that is stronger than the original factory frame rails!! These frame connectors fit cars available in 70 through 75 - whether Dodge or Plymouth, such as the Duster and Dart Sport. Requires Welding.

Frame connectors Install Instructions

$208.00
63-66 Mopar Dodge A-Body Frame Connectors

Mopar Weld-in Frame Rail Connectors

1963 - 1966 Dodge, Early A-Bodies

If you have ever wanted to take your classic MOPAR to the next level of chassis updates, you know you need frame rail connectors. The US Car Tool frame rail connectors are custom fit to the floorpan of your Mopar.

These frame rail connectors are precision CNC cut and CNC bent to form a  unique frame member that follows the contour of your existing floor. When they are welded to the floorpan of your Mopar Unibody, you create a complete boxed in frame rail section that is stronger than the original frame rails on your car. These are made from approximately 1/8" thick material and will create the strongest chassis you can have for your Mopar (without going to a full tube style chassis).

These frame rail connectors install from underneath your car - no need to cut a slice out of your floor! For years, racers have been cutting a 2" wide slice out of the floor and installing a section of 2x4 box tubing that is then welded to the floor as a frame rail connector. When done this way, the connectors are very strong, since the entire floor is connected to the frame. The new US Car Tool frame rail connectors give you the same "welded to the floor" boxed strength, but they do not intrude into the passenger compartment. This means you will have no problems installing carpet or your seats!

Truely the best A-Body frame connectors you can add!

Follow this link for pictures of one of our customers installing a set of B-body frame rail connectors (The A-bodies are very similar, just have a slightly different floorpan).

Our frame connectors are CAD designed to be a 100% perfect fit to your floopan. They are CNC Machine cut from 11 gauge steel ( 1/8" thick) and then CNC bent to create that perfect fit that US Car Tool products are known for.

Whether you are making your car the Ultimate 'G' machine, a 1/4 mile star or just a great street brawler - these frame connectors will help that Mopar unibody stopping twisting (which wastes power) and help get every available horsepower to the ground!

This version fits Dodge A-Body cars from 1963 to 1966 including Dart etc.

Works With:

  • Small blocks, Big Blocks and Hemi
  • Automatics (727 & 904) and 4-speed
  • Convertibles and Hemi cars
  • With or without factory torque boxes

The US Car Tool frame connectors are delivered in a plain steel finish, ready for welding to your Mopar Unibody and include complete installation instructions.

FAQ's

Where do the Frame Connectors mount?

The US Car Tool frame connectors are designed to connect the front and rear frame rail segments on a unibody chassis and tie the floorpan into the new structure. They mount from the leading edge of the rear frame rail where it meets the floorpan and continue forward to the torsion bar crossmember. The add the missing piece between the factory frame rail sections, incorporate the floorpan (technically a shear plane) as an integral part of the new support structure. This incorporates structural parts of your unibody and makes these key areas even stronger!!


What does a Frame Connector do?

Frame Connectors add additional stiffness to the factory unibody. As originally designed, the unibody spreads the suspension and drivetrain forces from the frame rails to the rocker sills and floorpan (a shear plane). By adding frame connectors that are CNC Machine cut to the contour of the floorpan, you can add an additional stiffner that ties the floorpan into the existing frame structure and adds a structure between the front and rear frame stubs.

This will make the unibody stiffer both to bending forces (front to rear as you might experience when the front tire hits a bump) as well as torsion twisting forces, such as you experience when accelerating and the drivetrain is attempting to "twist" the unibody

Making the unibody stiffer and stronger aids the suspension in doing its' job of keeping the tires in contact with the ground.


Why are the US Car Tool Frame Connectors better?

The US Car Tool Frame Connectors add an entire structure to your unibody. It is the unique shape of the structure and the fact that it is incorporated into the existing shear plane (floorboard) that provides the additional strength over classic square or rectangular tubes attached at the ends. This is based on is the same engineering principles that resulted in unibody cars being both stronger and less expensive to produce than body-on-frame style automobiles.

The engineering measure of this increased strength is referred to as the modulus of elasticity. The new structure created by the US Car Tool frame connectors is substantially greater than a simple square tube, both in resistance to bending and to torsional twist. In fact, it would take a square tube over 3 times as thick to offer the same bending strength and that tube would still NOT be as strong in resisting twist forces!


Does my car need Frame Connectors?

Any unibody automobile will benefit from the increase in stiffness and rigidity by installing frame connectors. Some cars, such as convertibles that lack the inherent strength of a "roof", will see a tremendous increase in on-the-road feel. Any car will benefit from the additional chassis (unibody) stiffening, especially if you are increasing the horsepower or just want you car to feel more "solid" going down the road.

Planning to race your on a dragstrip with some "extra" horsepower? Watch how much better you can launch your car when the power is applied to the rear wheels in stead of spent twisting the chassis! Interested in having a car that can turn corners with the best of them? Watch how much better your suspension can do its job once you stop the entire unibody from twisting and let the springs do the job as they where designed for!

Are these duplicates of the OEM factory Frame Connectors?

No, the OEM manufactures never included frame connectors. We are told by customers, that the US Car Tool frame connectors look like they belong and have such a factory appearance that hardly anyone notices they are an aftermarket addition!


Do these require welding?

Yes, installing US Car Tool frame connectors requires them to be welded into position. Some minor adjusting and fabrication can be expected with weld-on parts, but these are designed to fit your unique unibody.

Frame connectors Install Instructions

$208.00
76-80 F-Body Volare Frame Connectors
F Body Frame Connector fits 74-80 Volare / Roadrunners

CNC Machine cut from 12ga thick steel (original factory rails are made from 16 gauge material) and CNC bent for a precision fit, these frame rail connectors are designed to be welded in to your existing unibody floor pan. No cutting of the floorpan is required and once welded in, they create a fully boxed frame rail connector that is stronger than the original factory frame rails!! These frame connectors fit F-Body cars available in 74 through 80 - whether Dodge or Plymouth. Requires Welding.
$208.00
Weld in Frame Connector for 1978-1979 Dodge Magnum
Weld in Frame Connector for 78-79 Dodge Magnum with isolated front torsion bars and passenger side catalytic converter.
$251.00
Weld-in Frame Connector 73-75 B-Body Dodge and Plymouth w/o Catalytic converter
Weld-in Frame Connector 73-75 Dodge and Plymouth w/o Catalytic converter
$251.00
63-66 Mopar A-Body Inner Fender Braces
The US Car Tool Inner fender braces are designed and engineered to add stiffness and strength to the front end of your car’s unibody. They connect the inner fender sheet metal to the stamped steel shock tower and add a continuous gusset/brace travelling rearward to the firewall. This system is designed to allow suspension forces to be dissipated into the unibody rather than causing a bending motion in any single component. Stated plainly, your frame rails will not bend as much after install the USCT inner fender braces!
$174.00
63-66 Mopar A-Body Core Support Stiffener
Front Lower Core Support Brace. installs between the front frame rails, under the factory radiator. Can replace the factory thin sheet metal support or can be installed on top of the factory core support. Adds rigidity to the extreme front of the factory frame rails. 1967-1975 Mopar A-Bodies
$164.00
67-75 A-Body Radiator Core Support Replacement with Adjustable Width

The US Car Tool radiator core support is made from 12ga steel (twice as thick as than the OEM sheet metal) and adds much needed stiffening to the front frame rails and inner fenders while maintaining that stock OEM look. Adjustable to fit any radiator, from 22" up to a mammoth 28” wide C-Body radiator or aftermarket Aluminum radiator. (The front frame rails are the limiting factor to radiator width on an A-Body Mopar).

The unique design of the US Car Tool radiator core support provides an extra ¾ inch of much needed space between the radiator and the water pump to provide room for the largest of electric fans or serpentine belt drives. The US Car Tool radiator core support adds stiffness to the car’s unibody, allows you to run a large radiator and provides more clearance in the engine bay.

Flat Packed for lower cost shipping, requires welding and assembly. Shipping weight 25 lbs, installed weight 22 lbs.

Whether at a drag race, on a road course or carving corners on the street, the US Car Tool radiator core support makes your car better.

$439.00
Torque Boxes Set of four (4) for 1976 - 1980 Mopar F Body Volare

These torque boxes are designed to add strength to your Mopar unibody in several critical areas. The factory added OEM torque boxes on the high-HP, high torque cars and convertibles. Hemi cars, six-pak cars etc. had torque boxes added by the factory engineers. Our interpretation of the OEM pieces improves on that proven design. We made them stronger by using 1/8" thick steel and having them CNC Machine cut and CNC bent.

This is a complete set of (4) torque boxes, left & right fronts, left & right rears.
$241.00
Torque Boxes Set of two (2) FRONT for 1966 - 1970 Mopar B Bodies
Dodge Plymouth B Body Mopar "Hot Rod" Torque Box Set

(Includes 2 - two rear only) - Fits all B Bodies from 1966 through 1970, Dodge and Plymouth, Charger, Roadrunner, Superbee, GTX etc.

These torque boxes are designed to add strength to your Mopar unibody in several critical areas. The factory added OEM torque boxes on the high-HP, high torque cars and convertibles. Hemi cars, six-pak cars etc. had torque boxes added by the factory engineers. Our interpretation of the OEM pieces improves on that proven design. We made them stronger by using 1/8" thick steel and having them CNC Machine cut and CNC bent.

This is a set of (2) rear torque boxes, left & right rears.


FAQ's

Where do the rear Torque Boxes mount?

The rear torque box is designed to "box in" the area just in front of the rear leaf spring front hanger. It adds the missing pieces between the factory frame rail section, the front spring hanger longitudinal and the rocker box. This "boxing" adds stiffeners between major structural parts of your unibody and makes these key areas even stronger!!

Where do the front Torque Boxes mount?

The front torque box is designed to to triangulate the front frame rail, the lower firewall pimch weld area and the rocker box. They install between the front frame rail and the rocker, right at the firewall to floor pinch weld. These are all higher strength areas of the unibody and triangulating them adds roll stiffness to the mopar unibody front frame stub.

What does a Torque Box do?

The simple version is: The torque box acts like a gusset and adds strength. On a Mopar unibody, the front and rear Torque Boxes have different tasks, so lets break the question up into two; What do the front do? and What to the rears do?

What do the rear Torque Boxes do?

On a Mopar Unibody, all of the forces that move the car forward are transferred from the drivetrain (engine, transmission, rear end) to the "unibody" via the rear leaf springs. The front leaf spring mount is the specific point on the unibody where all these forces are focused.

There are "push forward" forces and also "lift up" forces. (Go watch a high horsepower leaf spring Mopar launch at the drag strip and you will see the rear body separation over the rear tires; there is a lot of "up" force!) In fact, it is this "up force" that ultimately has a car do a wheelie! OK, back to the question, what does a Torque Box do? It helps spreads all this force (push forward and up) from the front leaf spring mount longitudinal to the frame rail and the rocker.

By adding this "box" you strengthen the part of your unibody that is taking all the forces from your high-horsepower, high torque drivetrain. So, rear Torque boxes help the most during launch of a high horsepower, high torque car, they also add general stiffness, which is why they got added to all mopar convertibles!

What do the front Torque Boxes do?

The front Torque boxes help strength the area of your Mopar unibody that is subjected to the twisting forces as your car is driven. As you drive your Mopar, the suspension is designed to absorb the forces from bumps and body roll (cornering). The suspension transmits this "twisting" force at the front of the car mostly into the front frame rails! (Some goes via the torsion bar into the torsion bar crossmember). This "twist" subjects the area where the front frame rail is attached to the center "unibody" tub to a great amount of bending forces. Adding the front torque boxes helps "gusset" this area and spreads the twisting forces out. Making this area stronger means it does not flex as much. Reducing flex in the unibody helps the suspension do its job. So the front Torque Box adds unibody roll stiffness and aids in the cars handling.

Does my car need Torque Boxes?

The factory engineers added front & rear Torque Boxes to cars that had high horse power and high torque. They knew where the unibody was weakest and devised a simple solution to strengthen those areas. Since convertibles lack the inherent strength of a "roof", they also aded them to all the convertibles! Any car will benefit from the additional chassis (unibody) stiffening, especially if you are increasing the horsepower or just want you car to feel more "solid" going down the road.

Are these duplicates of the OEM factory Torque Boxes?

No, we build a version we refer to as our "Hot Rod" Torque Boxes. These mount in the factory locations but are designed to be stronger and easier to add on a car that has already left the factory. For a concors restoration, you may want to consider an OEM part, but for the "Hot Rod" in your garage, these are thicker, stronger and look cleaner!


Do these require welding?

Yes, installing Torque Boxes requires them to be welded into position.
$131.00
Torque Boxes Set of two (2) REAR for 1966 - 1970 Mopar B Bodies
Dodge Plymouth B Body Mopar "Hot Rod" Torque Box Set

(Includes 2 - two rear only) - Fits all B Bodies from 1966 through 1970, Dodge and Plymouth, Charger, Roadrunner, Superbee, GTX etc.

These torque boxes are designed to add strength to your Mopar unibody in several critical areas. The factory added OEM torque boxes on the high-HP, high torque cars and convertibles. Hemi cars, six-pak cars etc. had torque boxes added by the factory engineers. Our interpretation of the OEM pieces improves on that proven design. We made them stronger by using 1/8" thick steel and having them CNC Machine cut and CNC bent.

This is a set of (2) rear torque boxes, left & right rears.


FAQ's

Where do the rear Torque Boxes mount?

The rear torque box is designed to "box in" the area just in front of the rear leaf spring front hanger. It adds the missing pieces between the factory frame rail section, the front spring hanger longitudinal and the rocker box. This "boxing" adds stiffeners between major structural parts of your unibody and makes these key areas even stronger!!

Where do the front Torque Boxes mount?

The front torque box is designed to to triangulate the front frame rail, the lower firewall pimch weld area and the rocker box. They install between the front frame rail and the rocker, right at the firewall to floor pinch weld. These are all higher strength areas of the unibody and triangulating them adds roll stiffness to the mopar unibody front frame stub.

What does a Torque Box do?

The simple version is: The torque box acts like a gusset and adds strength. On a Mopar unibody, the front and rear Torque Boxes have different tasks, so lets break the question up into two; What do the front do? and What to the rears do?

What do the rear Torque Boxes do?

On a Mopar Unibody, all of the forces that move the car forward are transferred from the drivetrain (engine, transmission, rear end) to the "unibody" via the rear leaf springs. The front leaf spring mount is the specific point on the unibody where all these forces are focused.

There are "push forward" forces and also "lift up" forces. (Go watch a high horsepower leaf spring Mopar launch at the drag strip and you will see the rear body separation over the rear tires; there is a lot of "up" force!) In fact, it is this "up force" that ultimately has a car do a wheelie! OK, back to the question, what does a Torque Box do? It helps spreads all this force (push forward and up) from the front leaf spring mount longitudinal to the frame rail and the rocker.

By adding this "box" you strengthen the part of your unibody that is taking all the forces from your high-horsepower, high torque drivetrain. So, rear Torque boxes help the most during launch of a high horsepower, high torque car, they also add general stiffness, which is why they got added to all mopar convertibles!

What do the front Torque Boxes do?

The front Torque boxes help strength the area of your Mopar unibody that is subjected to the twisting forces as your car is driven. As you drive your Mopar, the suspension is designed to absorb the forces from bumps and body roll (cornering). The suspension transmits this "twisting" force at the front of the car mostly into the front frame rails! (Some goes via the torsion bar into the torsion bar crossmember). This "twist" subjects the area where the front frame rail is attached to the center "unibody" tub to a great amount of bending forces. Adding the front torque boxes helps "gusset" this area and spreads the twisting forces out. Making this area stronger means it does not flex as much. Reducing flex in the unibody helps the suspension do its job. So the front Torque Box adds unibody roll stiffness and aids in the cars handling.

Does my car need Torque Boxes?

The factory engineers added front & rear Torque Boxes to cars that had high horse power and high torque. They knew where the unibody was weakest and devised a simple solution to strengthen those areas. Since convertibles lack the inherent strength of a "roof", they also aded them to all the convertibles! Any car will benefit from the additional chassis (unibody) stiffening, especially if you are increasing the horsepower or just want you car to feel more "solid" going down the road.

Are these duplicates of the OEM factory Torque Boxes?

No, we build a version we refer to as our "Hot Rod" Torque Boxes. These mount in the factory locations but are designed to be stronger and easier to add on a car that has already left the factory. For a concors restoration, you may want to consider an OEM part, but for the "Hot Rod" in your garage, these are thicker, stronger and look cleaner!


Do these require welding?

Yes, installing Torque Boxes requires them to be welded into position.
$131.00
Torque Boxes Set of two(2) rear for 1967 - 1975 Mopar A Bodies
Dodge Plymouth A Body Mopar "Hot Rod" Torque Box Set

(Includes two rearc) -
Fits all A Bodies from 1967 through 1975, Dodge and Plymouth, Dart, Duster, Scamp, Valiant etc.

These torque boxes are designed to add strength to your Mopar unibody in several critical areas. The factory added OEM torque boxes on the high-HP, high torque cars and convertibles. Hemi cars, six-pak cars etc. had torque boxes added by the factory engineers. Our interpretation of the OEM pieces improves on that proven design. We made them stronger by using 1/8" thick steel and having them CNC Machine cut and CNC bent.

This is a set of (2) rear torque boxes, left & right rears.


FAQ's

Where do the rear Torque Boxes mount?

The rear torque box is designed to "box in" the area just in front of the rear leaf spring front hanger. It adds the missing pieces between the factory frame rail section, the front spring hanger longitudinal and the rocker box. This "boxing" adds stiffeners between major structural parts of your unibody and makes these key areas even stronger!!

Where do the front Torque Boxes mount?

The front torque box is designed to to triangulate the front frame rail, the lower firewall pinch weld area and the rocker box. They install between the front frame rail and the rocker, right at the lower firewall to floor pinch weld. These are all higher strength areas of the unibody and triangulating them adds roll stiffness to the mopar unibody front frame stub.

What does a Torque Box do?

The simple version is: The torque box acts like a gusset and adds strength. On a Mopar unibody, the front and rear Torque Boxes have different tasks, so lets break the question up into two; What do the front do? and What to the rears do?

What do the rear Torque Boxes do?

On a Mopar Unibody, all of the forces that move the car forward are transferred from the drivetrain (engine, transmission, rear end) to the "unibody" via the rear leaf springs. The front leaf spring mount is the specific point on the unibody where all these forces are focused.

There are "push forward" forces and also "lift up" forces. (Go watch a high horsepower leaf spring Mopar launch at the drag strip and you will see the rear body separation over the rear tires; there is a lot of "up" force!) In fact, it is this "up force" that ultimately has a car do a wheelie! OK, back to the question, what does a Torque Box do? It helps spreads all this force (push forward and up) from the front leaf spring mount longitudinal to the frame rail and the rocker.

By adding this "box" you strengthen the part of your unibody that is taking all the forces from your high-horsepower, high torque drivetrain. So, rear Torque boxes help the most during launch of a high horsepower, high torque car, they also add general stiffness, which is why they got added to all mopar convertibles!

What do the front Torque Boxes do?

The front Torque boxes help strengthen the area of your Mopar unibody that is subjected to the twisting forces as your car is driven. As you drive your Mopar, the suspension is designed to absorb the forces from bumps and body roll (cornering). The suspension transmits these "twisting" forces from the moving parts (sprung - tires, wheels etc.) to the unmoving parts (unsprung - chassis, unibody). At the front of the car, most of these forces go into the frame rails! (Some goes via the torsion bar into the torsion bar crossmember). This "twist" on the front frame rails subjects the area where the front frame rail is attached to the center "unibody" tub to a great amount of bending forces. Adding the front torque boxes helps "gusset" this area and spreads the twisting forces out. Making this area stronger means it does not flex as much. Reducing flex in the unibody helps the suspension do its job. So the front Torque Box adds unibody roll stiffness and aids in the cars handling.

Does my car need Torque Boxes?

The factory engineers added front & rear Torque Boxes to cars that had high horse power and high torque. They knew where the unibody was weakest and devised a simple solution to strengthen those areas. Since convertibles lack the inherent strength of a "roof", they also added Torque Boxes to all the convertibles! Any car will benefit from the additional chassis (unibody) stiffening, especially if you are increasing the horsepower or just want you car to feel more "solid" going down the road.

Are these duplicates of the OEM factory Torque Boxes?

No, we build a version we refer to as our "Hot Rod" Torque Boxes. These mount in the factory locations but are designed to be stronger and easier to add on a car that has already left the factory. For a concors restoration, you may want to consider an OEM part, but for the "Hot Rod" in your garage, these are thicker, stronger and look cleaner!

Do these require welding?

Yes, installing Torque Boxes requires them to be welded into position.
$131.00
Torque Boxes Front Pair (2) only for 1970 - 1974 Mopar E Bodies
Dodge Plymouth E Body Mopar "Hot Rod" Torque Box Set (Front Pair only)


(Includes two front) - Fits all E Bodies (Challenger, Barracuda, Cuda) from 1970 through 1974, Dodge and Plymouth.

These torque boxes are designed to add strength to your Mopar unibody in several critical areas. The factory added OEM torque boxes on the high-HP, high torque cars and convertibles. Hemi cars, six-pak cars etc. had torque boxes added by the factory engineers. Our interpretation of the OEM pieces improves on that proven design. We made them stronger by using 1/8" thick steel and having them CNC Machine cut and CNC bent.

This is a set of (2) torque boxes, left & right fronts.


FAQ's

Where do the rear Torque Boxes mount?

The rear torque box is designed to "box in" the area just in front of the rear leaf spring front hanger. It adds the missing pieces between the factory frame rail section, the front spring hanger longitudinal and the rocker box. This "boxing" adds stiffeners between major structural parts of your unibody and makes these key areas even stronger!!

Where do the front Torque Boxes mount?

The front torque box is designed to to triangulate the front frame rail, the lower firewall pinch weld area and the rocker box. They install between the front frame rail and the rocker, right at the lower firewall to floor pinch weld. These are all higher strength areas of the unibody and triangulating them adds roll stiffness to the mopar unibody front frame stub.

What does a Torque Box do?

The simple version is: The torque box acts like a gusset and adds strength. On a Mopar unibody, the front and rear Torque Boxes have different tasks, so lets break the question up into two; What do the front do? and What to the rears do?

What do the rear Torque Boxes do?

On a Mopar Unibody, all of the forces that move the car forward are transferred from the drivetrain (engine, transmission, rear end) to the "unibody" via the rear leaf springs. The front leaf spring mount is the specific point on the unibody where all these forces are focused.

There are "push forward" forces and also "lift up" forces. (Go watch a high horsepower leaf spring Mopar launch at the drag strip and you will see the rear body separation over the rear tires; there is a lot of "up" force!) In fact, it is this "up force" that ultimately has a car do a wheelie! OK, back to the question, what does a Torque Box do? It helps spreads all this force (push forward and up) from the front leaf spring mount longitudinal to the frame rail and the rocker.

By adding this "box" you strengthen the part of your unibody that is taking all the forces from your high-horsepower, high torque drivetrain. So, rear Torque boxes help the most during launch of a high horsepower, high torque car, they also add general stiffness, which is why they got added to all mopar convertibles!

What do the front Torque Boxes do?

The front Torque boxes help strengthen the area of your Mopar unibody that is subjected to the twisting forces as your car is driven. As you drive your Mopar, the suspension is designed to absorb the forces from bumps and body roll (cornering). The suspension transmits these "twisting" forces from the moving parts (sprung - tires, wheels etc.) to the unmoving parts (unsprung - chassis, unibody). At the front of the car, most of these forces go into the frame rails! (Some goes via the torsion bar into the torsion bar crossmember). This "twist" on the front frame rails subjects the area where the front frame rail is attached to the center "unibody" tub to a great amount of bending forces. Adding the front torque boxes helps "gusset" this area and spreads the twisting forces out. Making this area stronger means it does not flex as much. Reducing flex in the unibody helps the suspension do its job. So the front Torque Box adds unibody roll stiffness and aids in the cars handling.

Does my car need Torque Boxes?

The factory engineers added front & rear Torque Boxes to cars that had high horse power and high torque. They knew where the unibody was weakest and devised a simple solution to strengthen those areas. Since convertibles lack the inherent strength of a "roof", they also added Torque Boxes to all the convertibles! Any car will benefit from the additional chassis (unibody) stiffening, especially if you are increasing the horsepower or just want you car to feel more "solid" going down the road.

Are these duplicates of the OEM factory Torque Boxes?

No, we build a version we refer to as our "Hot Rod" Torque Boxes. These mount in the factory locations but are designed to be stronger and easier to add on a car that has already left the factory. For a concors restoration, you may want to consider an OEM part, but for the "Hot Rod" in your garage, these are thicker, stronger and look cleaner!

Do these require welding?

Yes, installing Torque Boxes requires them to be welded into position.
$131.00
Torque Boxes Rear Pair (2) only for 1970 - 1974 Mopar E Bodies
Dodge Plymouth E Body Mopar "Hot Rod" Torque Box Set (Rear Pair only)


(Includes two rear) - Fits all E Bodies (Challenger, Barracuda, Cuda) from 1970 through 1974, Dodge and Plymouth.

These torque boxes are designed to add strength to your Mopar unibody in several critical areas. The factory added OEM torque boxes on the high-HP, high torque cars and convertibles. Hemi cars, six-pak cars etc. had torque boxes added by the factory engineers. Our interpretation of the OEM pieces improves on that proven design. We made them stronger by using 1/8" thick steel and having them CNC Machine cut and CNC bent.

This is a set of (2) torque boxes, left & right rears.


FAQ's

Where do the rear Torque Boxes mount?

The rear torque box is designed to "box in" the area just in front of the rear leaf spring front hanger. It adds the missing pieces between the factory frame rail section, the front spring hanger longitudinal and the rocker box. This "boxing" adds stiffeners between major structural parts of your unibody and makes these key areas even stronger!!

Where do the front Torque Boxes mount?

The front torque box is designed to to triangulate the front frame rail, the lower firewall pinch weld area and the rocker box. They install between the front frame rail and the rocker, right at the lower firewall to floor pinch weld. These are all higher strength areas of the unibody and triangulating them adds roll stiffness to the mopar unibody front frame stub.

What does a Torque Box do?

The simple version is: The torque box acts like a gusset and adds strength. On a Mopar unibody, the front and rear Torque Boxes have different tasks, so lets break the question up into two; What do the front do? and What to the rears do?

What do the rear Torque Boxes do?

On a Mopar Unibody, all of the forces that move the car forward are transferred from the drivetrain (engine, transmission, rear end) to the "unibody" via the rear leaf springs. The front leaf spring mount is the specific point on the unibody where all these forces are focused.

There are "push forward" forces and also "lift up" forces. (Go watch a high horsepower leaf spring Mopar launch at the drag strip and you will see the rear body separation over the rear tires; there is a lot of "up" force!) In fact, it is this "up force" that ultimately has a car do a wheelie! OK, back to the question, what does a Torque Box do? It helps spreads all this force (push forward and up) from the front leaf spring mount longitudinal to the frame rail and the rocker.

By adding this "box" you strengthen the part of your unibody that is taking all the forces from your high-horsepower, high torque drivetrain. So, rear Torque boxes help the most during launch of a high horsepower, high torque car, they also add general stiffness, which is why they got added to all mopar convertibles!

What do the front Torque Boxes do?

The front Torque boxes help strengthen the area of your Mopar unibody that is subjected to the twisting forces as your car is driven. As you drive your Mopar, the suspension is designed to absorb the forces from bumps and body roll (cornering). The suspension transmits these "twisting" forces from the moving parts (sprung - tires, wheels etc.) to the unmoving parts (unsprung - chassis, unibody). At the front of the car, most of these forces go into the frame rails! (Some goes via the torsion bar into the torsion bar crossmember). This "twist" on the front frame rails subjects the area where the front frame rail is attached to the center "unibody" tub to a great amount of bending forces. Adding the front torque boxes helps "gusset" this area and spreads the twisting forces out. Making this area stronger means it does not flex as much. Reducing flex in the unibody helps the suspension do its job. So the front Torque Box adds unibody roll stiffness and aids in the cars handling.

Does my car need Torque Boxes?

The factory engineers added front & rear Torque Boxes to cars that had high horse power and high torque. They knew where the unibody was weakest and devised a simple solution to strengthen those areas. Since convertibles lack the inherent strength of a "roof", they also added Torque Boxes to all the convertibles! Any car will benefit from the additional chassis (unibody) stiffening, especially if you are increasing the horsepower or just want you car to feel more "solid" going down the road.

Are these duplicates of the OEM factory Torque Boxes?

No, we build a version we refer to as our "Hot Rod" Torque Boxes. These mount in the factory locations but are designed to be stronger and easier to add on a car that has already left the factory. For a concors restoration, you may want to consider an OEM part, but for the "Hot Rod" in your garage, these are thicker, stronger and look cleaner!

Do these require welding?

Yes, installing Torque Boxes requires them to be welded into position.
$131.95
A-12 Reproduction Lift off hood brackets
Reproduction 1969 Dodge Superbee and Plymouth Roadrunner lift off sixpak hood brackets. These high quality hood brackets fit 1966-1970 B-Body cars and support the rear hood pins in the OEM factory. Take the weight off of your classic Mopar, replace the steel hood with fiberglass lift off style and use these lift off hood reproduction brackets to hold it securely in position.
$39.95
Mopar A/B/E Body Car Moving Body Wheel Set
Mopar Body wheel set. This is a set of four (4) body wheels that bolt onto your unibody so you can roll the empty body wheel around in your shop or take it onto your trailer to go to the paint shop etc. Each set includes two front 8" ball bearing swivel caster body wheels and two 8" fixed rear caster body wheels. the rear brackets bolt onto the leaf spring mounting locations. The front brackets are specially designed, laser cut, formed and welded to allow bolting onto either front bumper mounting location or the K-frame bolting locations. Each set fits ALL A, B and E body cars - you can use the same set for your Dart AND your 71 Hemi Cuda! Brackets are powdercoated in wrinkle black for years of great looks, even in the roughest garage environment. We use them in our shop all the time!
$439.00
Mopar A/B/E Body Front Pair Car Moving Body Wheels
Mopar Body wheel set. This is a pair of front brackets and (2) body wheels that bolt onto your unibody so you can roll the empty body wheel around in your shop or take it onto your trailer to go to the paint shop etc. Each set includes two front 8" ball bearing swivel caster body wheels. The front brackets are specially designed, laser cut, formed and welded to allow bolting onto either front bumper mounting location or the K-frame bolting locations. Each set fits ALL A, B and E body cars - you can use the same set for your Dart AND your 71 Hemi Cuda! Brackets are powdercoated in wrinkle black for years of great looks, even in the roughest garage environment. We use them in our shop all the time! FRONTS ONLY.
$274.00
Mopar C Body Front Pair Car Moving Body Wheels
Mopar Body wheel set. This is a pair of front brackets and (2) body wheels that bolt onto your unibody so you can roll the empty body wheel around in your shop or take it onto your trailer to go to the paint shop etc. Each set includes two front 8" ball bearing swivel caster body wheels. The front brackets are specially designed, laser cut, formed and welded to allow bolting onto either front bumper mounting location or the K-frame bolting locations. Each set fits ALL C body cars from 65 through 72. FRONTS ONLY.
$274.00
Mopar A/B/C/E Body Rear Pair Car Moving Body Wheels
Mopar Body wheel set. This is a pair of Rear brackets and (2) body wheels that bolt onto your unibody so you can roll the empty body wheel around in your shop or take it onto your trailer to go to the paint shop etc. Each set includes two rear 8" ball bearing fixed caster body wheels. The rear brackets are specially designed to bolt to the leaf spring front hanger location. Each set fits ALL Mopar A/B/C/E body cars. REARS ONLY.
$219.00
Dodge LX Body Car Moving Body Wheel Front Pair
Dodge LX Body wheel set. This is a set of two Front body wheel brackets and 8" solid caster wheels. Perfect to roll your Charger R/T body around in your shop or take it onto your trailer to go to the paint shop etc. Each set includes two front 8" ball bearing swivel caster body wheels. The front brackets are specially designed, formed and welded to allow bolting onto the K-frame bolting locations. Each set fits ALL Mopar Dodge LX body cars. Brackets are powdercoated in wrinkle black for years of great looks, even in the roughest garage environment. We use them in our shop all the time!
$199.00
Tubular K-Frame adapters (2 ea)
These are adapters for the USCT Motorsports K-frame stand. They permit using the K-frame stand with a non factory OEM tublar style K-frame such as the RMS Alterktion or the Magnumforce K-frames. You will receive two (2) adapters and they mount on the top of the K-frame stand uprights, this permits any square or round tube member of the aftermarket K-frame to be supported by the USCT Motorsports K-frame stand.
$35.00
70-74 E-Body Leaf Spring Re-Location Kit
1970-1974 Mopar E Body Leaf Spring Re-Location Kit
 
Fits Dodge Challenger and Plymouth Barracuda

Features stock bolt location plus 1" inch down bolt location!
 
Our Kit is CNC Cut From 3/16" Mild Steel
 
US Car Tool does it again. Well known for their chassis stiffening products, US Car Tool has now created a kit to help E-Body Mopar car owners get even better performance by providing up to 9" more room for rear tires. Anyone who has ever looked underneath the rear end of a Mopar notices the leaf springs are in the way of really wide tires / wheels. Racers and chassis fabrication shops have been moving these in for years, and believe me, it is not as easy as it sounds. Why do you think all the race cars ads say "Hooks hard and goes straight", unless going straight was not the norm? The US Car Tool leaf spring relocating kit is self aligning off the factory leaf spring mounting holes and includes instruction on how to cut the factory frame rails, locate and weld in the new front and rear mounts and measure to be sure you are straight and square. This kit won't make you a chassis shop, but it will help an advanced hot rodder gain up to 9"of tire tread space in the back of that Mopar!

Includes:

  • Set Of Pre-Fabricated 3/16 thick front spring buckets with attached tabs to precisely locate using the factory spring hanger mounting (assures correct placement)

  • New rear spring hanger mounting rail with shackle sleeve (uses factory stock rear shackles / bushings)

  • New USCT rear spring perches with extended pad design for better spring wrap control
  • Detailed Set Of Instructions with pictures

Frequently Asked Questions:

Whats the biggest wheel and tire i can fit after installing a spring relocation?

Its hard to give sizes that are concrete due to the shape of the wheelhouse, ride height, and wheelbase. The USCT Spring relocation on an E-Body Challenger or Cuda moves the factory leaf springs inboard a full 4.5" per side. When combined with a mini tub kit, you will have 15" clearance between the frame and the outer quarter panel lip in the center of the tire. You can even roll the lip for more room, but 15" is an enormous amount of room. When our mini-tub kit is installed with the rear spring relocation kit, this will allow for maximum tire size. The actual size tire that can be fit in the wheelhouse will depend on many factors including wheelhouse shape, size, ride height of vehicle, wheel backspace, wheel diameter, tire diameter, tire width, axle width. All these play an important part in selecting the correct size for your application.

Examples of tire size and wheel combinations we have used on E-bodies:

1971 Plymouth Cuda: 355x30x19 Tire

Does the rear end need to be shortened?

The rear may need to be shortened depending on your wheel offset, this will require mock-up and measuring to be correct.

Will the rear seat still fit?

The rear seat is not impacted by the spring relocation. If you also install the mini-tub kit you may need modification to the rear seat.

Will the rear valence still fit?

The rear valence may need to be modified for rear shackle clearance on some cars.

Do the seat belts still work?

Yes, Spring relocation does not impact the seat belt mounting.

Is the stock exhaust impacted?

Moving the leaf springs inboard will impact the factory rear exhaust resonators. You will need to modify a factory exhaust system to fit with a spring relocation.

Does this require different shock?

If you narrow the rear, the shocks would ideally need to be shorter and will also depend on ride height, so mock up and measurement is required to get the right length.

Does this kit work with Super Stock Springs?

Yes. We can also locate custom spring mounting holes in the spring buckets if you have a special application.

Do you install these for customers?

Yes we do, just give us a call to schedule an installation appointment.

How much work is required for the install?

We allow 1 days to perform a spring relocation installation in our install center.

We have more pictures of the spring relocation install process on our website at www.uscartool.com under the pictures section.

Any questions give us a call at (919) 855-8200


$274.00
66-70 B-body Dodge Mini tub and Rear Spring Relocation Combo
Ever wanted to gain more room for bigger tires in your classic Mopar but thought that moving the wheel tubs was too much work? US Car Tool has created a kit to save you time and money for just that! This kit allows you to Mini-Tub your A or B-body Mopar in a weekend with our pre-fabricated wheel tub filler and spring relocation kit. US Car Tool's Brand New Mini-Tub and Rear Spring Relocation combo includes: -Pre-Fabricated Wheel Tub Fillers -Trunk Hinge Braces Extensions 1966 & 1967 Chargers will not require the two braces that are included. -Cut Templates -Spring buckets -Shackle brackets and sleeves -Spring Perches -Step by Step instructions

Note: 66-67 cars require additional modifications to inner wheel house for hinge clearance if you plan to use the factory decklid hinges. We have a set of fabricated clearance blisters available to provide this clearance and their location does not impact tire room at all.
$439.00
67-75 A-Body GM2004R Cross-Member Kit
Engineered to facilitate installing a GM GM2004R overdrive automatic transmission into a Dodge/Plymouth Mopar A Body car. Requires additional fabrication and welding. Replacement center section for the factory transmission cross-member center section, includes transmission mount. This is used when a non-OEM transmission is installed into a Factory car and additional clearance is required for the transmission tail-shaft and the speedometer or VSS cable/sensor. The factory floor remains in the original location, requires removal of the factory torsion bar cross-member center section and welding in the replacement USCT transmission cross-member. The USCT cross-member is a fully boxed section, engineered to provide the structural integrity that would be lost by removing the factory cross-member. The kit includes the cross-member, lower transmission mount, Grade 8 mounting hardware and instructions for installation. The components are all factory jig tack-welded, ready for seam welding during installation. Requires fabrication and welding to install.
$219.00
62-65 Dodge Mini tub and Spring relo combo
Ever wanted to gain more room for bigger tires in your classic Mopar but thought that moving the wheel tubs was too much work? US Car Tool has created a kit to save you time and money for just that! This kit allows you to Mini-Tub your Mopar in a weekend with our pre-fabricated wheel tub filler and spring relocation kit. US Car Tool's Brand New Mini-Tub and Rear Spring Relocation combo includes: Pre-Fabricated Wheel Tub Fillers -Trunk Hinge Braces Extensions -Cut Templates -Spring buckets -Shackle brackets and sleeves -Spring Perches -Step by Step instructions
$439.00
62-65 Plymouth B-Body Mini tub and Spring relo combo
Ever wanted to gain more room for bigger tires in your classic Mopar but thought that moving the wheel tubs was too much work? US Car Tool has created a kit to save you time and money for just that! This kit allows you to Mini-Tub your Mopar in a weekend with our pre-fabricated wheel tub filler and spring relocation kit. US Car Tool's Brand New Mini-Tub and Rear Spring Relocation combo includes: Pre-Fabricated Wheel Tub Fillers -Trunk Hinge Braces Extensions -Cut Templates -Spring buckets -Shackle brackets and sleeves -Spring Perches -Step by Step instructions
$439.00
Mopar Spring Perches

US Car Tool Mopar Spring Perches

 The US Car Tool leaf spring perch is well designed for your specific needs. The correct width, length and height with precisely sized location holes to fit your leaf spring locating tab. Built as an exact factory replacement part, these will fit any differential housing with a standard 3.125 inch tube such as the Mopar 8.75 and Spicer Dana 60 rear. Please note: many other replacement perches use an incorrectly oversized center registration hole and require welding in a bushing to fit vintage muscle applications. The US Car Tool spring perches are precisely engineered to fit correctly.

 

CNC cut and Precision CNC bent, the spring perches are manufactured in the US from thick 3/16ā€¯ mild steel. Why do we make them out of thicker steel than the originals? Our philosophy is simple; nothing overbuilt ever broke.

$29.99
70-74 MOPAR E-Body Mini-Tub Kit

US Car Tool's Brand New 70-74 E-Body Mini-Tub Kit!!

Fits all Challengers and Cuda's E-Bodies 1970-1974 (except convertibles)

Ever wanted to gain more room for bigger tires in your vintage E-body Mopar but thought that moving the wheel tubs was to much work?

US Car Tool  has created a kit to save you time and money for just that!

This kit allows you to Mini-Tub your E-body Mopar in a weekend with our pre-fabricated wheel tub filler, gain up to 15" clearance between the frame rail and the wheel lip - enough for a 355/30-19 tire.

Includes:

  • Set Of Pre-Fabricated Wheel Tub Fillers

  • Set Of Frame Rail Notch Templates (metal)

  • Set Of Frame Rail Notch Panels

  • Set Of Frame Rail Notch inner braces

  • Set of Cut Templates (paper)

  • Detailed Set Of Instructions with pictures

Frequently Asked Questions:

Whats the biggest wheel and tire i can fit after installing a mini-tub and spring relocation?

Its hard to give sizes that are concrete due to the shape of the wheelhouse, ride height, and wheelbase. You will have 15" clearance between the frame and the outer quarter panel lip in the center of the tire. You can even roll the lip for more room, but 15" is an enormous amount of room. When our mini-tub kit is installed with our rear spring relocation kit, this will allow for maximum tire size. The actual size tire that can be fit in the wheelhouse will depend on many factors including wheelhouse shape, size, ride height of vehicle, wheel backspace, wheel diameter, tire diameter, tire width, axle width. All these play an important part in selecting the correct size for your application.

Examples of tire size and wheel combinations we have used on E-bodies:

1971 Plymouth Cuda: 355x30x19 Tire

Does the rear end need to be shortened?

The rear may need to be shortened depending on your wheel offset, this will require mock-up and measuring to be correct.

Will the rear seat still fit?

The rear seat may need modification along with the inner quarter window interior panel.

Do the seat belts still work?

The outboard seat belt anchor will move inboard with the inner wheelhouse and the seat belts will continue to work.

Does this require different shock?

If you narrow the rear, the shocks would ideally need to be shorter and will also depend on ride height, so mock up and measurement is required to get the right length.

Do you install these for customers?

Yes we do, just give us a call to schedule an installation appointment.

How much work is required for the install?

We allow 4 days to perform a complete mini tub installation in our install center.

We have more pictures of the mini-tub process on our website at www.uscartool.com under the pictures section.

Any questions give us a call at (919) 855-8200

$284.00
70-74 MOPAR E-Body Mini-Tub and Spring Relocation Combo Kit
Ever wanted to gain more room for bigger tires in your classic Mopar but thought that moving the wheel tubs was too much work? US Car Tool has created a kit to save you time and money for just that! This kit allows you to Mini-Tub your Mopar in a weekend with our pre-fabricated wheel tub filler and spring relocation kit. US Car Tool's Brand New Mini-Tub and Rear Spring Relocation combo includes: Pre-Fabricated Wheel Tub Fillers -Trunk Hinge Braces Extensions -Cut Templates -Spring buckets -Shackle brackets and sleeves -Spring Perches -Step by Step instructions
$504.00
71-72 B-Body Spring Relocation
71-72 B-Body Spring Relocation
$219.00
67-75 A-Body 518 Crossmember Kit
Engineered to facilitate installing a Chrysler 518 overdrive automatic transmission into a Dodge/Plymouth Mopar A Body car. Requires additional fabrication and welding.

Made from 3/16 thick steel, this replaces the factory transmission cross-member transmission mount. Provides the additional height and width required to for the 518 Transmission. Additional clearance may be required including cutting the factory crossmember for the transmission tail-shaft and the speedometer or VSS cable/sensor. The factory floor remains in the original location. Requires welding in the replacement USCT transmission mount tab. The tab is designed to accept the common GM 2 bolt style mount transmission insulator. The USCT cross-member is a fully boxed section, engineered to provide the structural integrity that would be lost by removing the factory cross-member. The kit includes the cross-member, lower transmission mount tab, Grade 8 mounting hardware and instructions for installation. The GM style insulator is not included and is available in almost every auto parts store. The components are factory jig welded, ready for installation. Requires fabrication and welding to install.
$274.00
71-73 MOPAR B-Body Mini-Tub Kit

US Car Tool's Brand New 71-73 B-Body Mini-Tub Kit!!

Fits Charger's B-Bodies 1970-1973

Ever wanted to gain more room for bigger tires in your vintage E-body Mopar but thought that moving the wheel tubs was to much work?

US Car Tool  has created a kit to save you time and money for just that!

This kit allows you to Mini-Tub your B-body Mopar in a weekend with our pre-fabricated wheel tub filler, gain up to 15" clearance between the frame rail and the wheel lip - enough for a 29x15.50R15 tire.

Includes:

  • Set Of Pre-Fabricated Wheel Tub Fillers

  • Set of Cut Templates (paper)

  • Detailed Set Of Instructions with pictures

Frequently Asked Questions:

Whats the biggest wheel and tire i can fit after installing a mini-tub and spring relocation?

Its hard to give sizes that are concrete due to the shape of the wheelhouse, ride height, and wheelbase. You will have 15" clearance between the frame and the outer quarter panel lip in the center of the tire. You can even roll the lip for more room, but 15" is an enormous amount of room. When our mini-tub kit is installed with our rear spring relocation kit, this will allow for maximum tire size. The actual size tire that can be fit in the wheelhouse will depend on many factors including wheelhouse shape, size, ride height of vehicle, wheel backspace, wheel diameter, tire diameter, tire width, axle width. All these play an important part in selecting the correct size for your application.

Examples of tire size and wheel combinations we have used on B-bodies:

1971 Charger: 355x30x19 Tire

Does the rear end need to be shortened?

The rear may need to be shortened depending on your wheel offset, this will require mock-up and measuring to be correct.

Will the rear seat still fit?

The rear seat may need modification along with the inner quarter window interior panel.

Do the seat belts still work?

The outboard seat belt anchor will move inboard with the inner wheelhouse and the seat belts will continue to work.

Does this require different shock?

If you narrow the rear, the shocks would ideally need to be shorter and will also depend on ride height, so mock up and measurement is required to get the right length.

Do you install these for customers?

Yes we do, just give us a call to schedule an installation appointment.

How much work is required for the install?

We allow 4 days to perform a complete mini tub installation in our install center.

We have more pictures of the mini-tub process on our website at www.uscartool.com under the pictures section.

Any questions give us a call at (919) 855-8200

$284.00
70 - 74 E-Body 518 Crossmember Kit
Engineered to facilitate installing a Chrysler 518 overdrive automatic transmission into a Dodge/Plymouth Mopar E Body car. Requires additional fabrication and welding.

Made from 3/16 thick steel, this replaces the factory transmission cross-member transmission mount. Provides the additional height and width required to for the 518 Transmission. Additional clearance may be required including cutting the factory crossmember for the transmission tail-shaft and the speedometer or VSS cable/sensor. The factory floor remains in the original location. Requires welding in the replacement USCT transmission mount tab. The tab is designed to accept the common GM 2 bolt style mount transmission insulator. The USCT cross-member is a fully boxed section, engineered to provide the structural integrity that would be lost by removing the factory cross-member. The kit includes the cross-member, lower transmission mount tab, Grade 8 mounting hardware and instructions for installation. The GM style insulator is not included and is available in almost every auto parts store. The components are factory jig welded, ready for installation. Requires fabrication and welding to install.
$274.00
Mopar A-Body 63-75 Spring Hanger Relocation Kit REAR SHACKLES ONLY
1963-1975 Mopar A-Body Leaf Spring Relocation Kit REAR SHACKLES

This is the two rear frame shackle mounts and bushing sleeves only. 1 left and 1 right. Designed to upgrade other kits that do not include the correct frame sleeve / shackle bushing or to replace damaged ones on your car.

These rear frame sleeves bolt to the A-Body original rear shackle bracket mount location so you are assured the new frame shackle bushing is located in the correct position for the rear leaf spring mounting.

Includes two (2) new bushing sleeves. Requires cutting / welding. Note: These are included in the USCT Spring Relocation kits for A-body cars, only purchase these to upgrade a different kit or replace your damaged parts.
$83.00
Mopar B-Body 66-70 Spring Hanger Relocation Kit REAR SHACKLES ONLY
1966-1970 Mopar B-Body Leaf Spring Relocation Kit REAR SHACKLES

This is the two rear frame shackle mounts and bushing sleeves only. 1 left and 1 right. Designed to upgrade other kits that do not include the correct frame sleeve / shackle bushing or to replace damaged ones on your car.

These rear frame sleeves go over the factory rear frame and include a tool to properly locate them off the original rear shackle bracket mount location so you are assured the new frame shackle bushing is located in the correct position for the rear leaf spring mounting.

Includes two (2) new bushing sleeves. Requires cutting / welding. Note: These are included in the USCT Spring Relocation kits for B-body cars, only purchase these to upgrade a different kit or replace your damaged parts.
$83.00
Fuel pump block off plate - small block
Small block LA platform fuel pump block off plate.  Powder coated.
$20.00
Fender Bolt Fastener Kit MOPAR Dodge Plymouth A/B Body
A/B Body Complete Fender Bolt Fastener Kit Set


This kit has all the fasteners you need to install a pair of fenders onto your Mopar Classic Auto.

Includes 48 pieces: Dog Point Bolts, Slip on Nuts, Studs and captured washer nuts - All correct and complete.

Each Kit comes with:

Upper Fender to Inner Fender slip-on nuts and dog point bolts with built in washer
Front core support to Fender slip on nuts and dog point bolts with built in washer
Lower Fender to rocker deep slip-on nuts, stud and washer with captured nut

This is the most complete kit available and uses all the correct fastners, in the correct lengths and styles, includes a total of 48 pieces. For instance, check the lower fender stud slip-on nuts; we supply the correct long style so the stud is located in the correct factory location on the rocker. We have been assembling and using these kits for years in our in-house restoration facility and now are making them available.

Several of the fasteners are available both in the OEM black oxide finish and an updated zinc phosphate (gold color) finish. The zinc phosphate finish is much more durable, resists corrosion and takes paint better than the OEM black oxide.

These kits fit all the A Body and B Body mopars from 1966 through 1974. Some A Bodies used fewer fasteners than supplied, so you will have an extra!

$49.99
Mopar Dodge Plymouth Steering Gear Bolts
Dodge Plymouth Steering Gear High Strength Bolts and Lock Washers
$18.00
Mopar 67-75 A Body 66-70 B Body Door Hinge Bolt kit
 Complete B Body Door / Door Hinge Bolt Fastener Kit Set


This kit has all the fasteners you need to install all the bolt Doors onto your Mopar Classic B Body Auto.

Includes 22 pieces: Dog Point Bolts - All correct and complete.

Each Kit comes with:

Door Hinge to Door bolts (upper and lower)
Door Hinge to A Pillar body bolts (upper and lower)


This is the most complete kit available and uses all the correct fasteners, in the correct lengths and styles, includes a total of 22 pieces. For instance, check the lower fender stud slip-on nuts; we supply the correct long style so the stud is located in the correct factory location on the rocker. We have been assembling and using these kits for years in our in-house restoration facility and now are making them available.

These kits fit all the B Body mopars from 1966 through 1970 and A-Bodies 67-75
$49.99
Mopar 70-74 E Body Door Hinge Bolt kit
Challenger Cuda Barracuda E Body Door Hinge Bolt Kit

This kit has all the fasteners you need to install the Doors, Doors hinges onto your Mopar Classic E Body Auto.

Includes 26 pieces: Dog Point Bolts- All correct and complete.

Each Kit comes with:


Door Hinge to Door bolts (upper and lower)
Door Hinge to A Pillar body bolts (upper and lower)

This is the most complete kit available and uses all the correct fasteners, in the correct lengths and styles, includes a total of 26 pieces. We have been assembling and using these kits for years in our in-house restoration facility and now are making them available.

These kits fit all the E Body Mopars from 1970, 1971, 1972 1973 and 1974.

Wicked
$49.99
Mopar E-Body Early 1970 Hood Bolt kit
Challenger Cuda Barracuda Early 1970 E Body Door Hinge Bolt Kit

This kit has all the fasteners you need to install the hood onto your Mopar Classic E Body Auto.

Includes 10 pieces: Dog Point Bolts- All correct and complete.

Each Kit comes with:


Hood to Hood Hinge bolts
Hood Hinge to Inner Fender bolts

This is the most complete kit available and uses all the correct fasteners, in the correct lengths and styles, includes a total of 10 pieces. We have been assembling and using these kits for years in our in-house restoration facility and now are making them available.

These kits fit all the Early E Body Mopars from 1970
$44.99
Mopar A Body 67-75 Total Kit Hood, Decklid, Fenders Doors
Complete Body Bolt Fastener Kit Set for A Bodies


This kit has all the fasteners you need to install all the bolt on body panels onto your Mopar Classic A Body Auto.

Includes 88 pieces: Dog Point Bolts, Slip on Nuts, Studs and captured washer nuts - All correct and complete.

Each Kit comes with:

Upper Fender to Inner Fender slip-on nuts and dog point bolts with built in washer
Front core support to Fender slip on nuts and dog point bolts with built in washer
Lower Fender to rocker deep slip-on nuts, stud and washer with captured nut
Hood to Hood Hinge bolts
Hood Hinge to Inner Fender bolts
Door Hinge to Door bolts (upper and lower)
Door Hinge to A Pillar body bolts (upper and lower)
Decklid to Decklid Hinge bolts

This is the most complete kit available and uses all the correct fasteners, in the correct lengths and styles, includes a total of 88 pieces. For instance, check the lower fender stud slip-on nuts; we supply the correct long style so the stud is located in the correct factory location on the rocker. We have been assembling and using these kits for years in our in-house restoration facility and now are making them available.

These kits fit all the A Body mopars from 1967 through 1975.
$99.00
Mopar B Body 66-70 Total Kit Hood, Decklid, Fenders Doors
Complete Body Bolt Fastener Kit Set


This kit has all the fasteners you need to install all the bolt on body panels onto your Mopar Classic B Body Auto.

Includes 88 pieces: Dog Point Bolts, Slip on Nuts, Studs and captured washer nuts - All correct and complete.

Each Kit comes with:

Upper Fender to Inner Fender slip-on nuts and dog point bolts with built in washer
Front core support to Fender slip on nuts and dog point bolts with built in washer
Lower Fender to rocker deep slip-on nuts, stud and washer with captured nut
Hood to Hood Hinge bolts
Hood Hinge to Inner Fender bolts
Door Hinge to Door bolts (upper and lower)
Door Hinge to A Pillar body bolts (upper and lower)
Decklid to Decklid Hinge bolts

This is the most complete kit available and uses all the correct fasteners, in the correct lengths and styles, includes a total of 88 pieces. For instance, check the lower fender stud slip-on nuts; we supply the correct long style so the stud is located in the correct factory location on the rocker. We have been assembling and using these kits for years in our in-house restoration facility and now are making them available.

These kits fit all the B Body mopars from 1966 through 1970.
$99.99
Mopar E Body Early 70 Total Kit Hood, Decklid, Fenders Doors
Cuda Challenger E-Body
Fender/Door/Hood/Fender/Deck lid Bolt Fastener Kit Set



This kit has all the fasteners you need to install all the bolt on body panels onto your Mopar Classic E Body Auto.

Includes 88 pieces: Dog Point Bolts, Slip on Nuts, Studs and captured washer nuts - All correct and complete.

Each Kit comes with:

Upper Fender to Inner Fender slip-on nuts and dog point bolts with built in washer
Front core support to Fender slip on nuts and dog point bolts with built in washer
Lower Fender to rocker deep slip-on nuts, stud and washer with captured nut
Hood to Hood Hinge bolts
Hood Hinge to Inner Fender bolts
Door Hinge to Door bolts (upper and lower)
Door Hinge to A Pillar body bolts (upper and lower)
Decklid to Decklid Hinge bolts

This is the most complete kit available and uses all the correct fasteners, in the correct lengths and styles, includes a total of 88 pieces. For instance, check the lower fender stud slip-on nuts; we supply the correct long style so the stud is located in the correct factory location on the rocker. We have been assembling and using these kits for years in our in-house restoration facility and now are making them available.

These kits fit all the E Body mopars from 1970 through 1974.
$104.95
Mopar E Body Late 70, 71-74 Total Kit Hood, Decklid, Fenders Doors
Challenger Cuda Barracuda Complete Body Bolt Fastener Kit Set


This kit has all the fasteners you need to install the bolt on Fenders, Doors, Doors hinges, Hood, Hood hinges, Decklid and Decklid hinges onto your Mopar Classic E Body Auto.

Includes 92 pieces: Dog Point Bolts, Slip on Nuts, Studs and captured washer nuts - All correct and complete.

Each Kit comes with:

Upper Fender to Inner Fender slip-on nuts and dog point bolts with built in washer
Front core support to Fender slip on nuts and dog point bolts with built in washer
Lower Fender to rocker deep slip-on nuts, stud and washer with captured nut
Hood to Hood Hinge bolts (Early 1970 E-Bodies pleas inform, these use a slightly different bolt for the hood!)
Hood Hinge to Inner Fender bolts
Door Hinge to Door bolts (upper and lower)
Door Hinge to A Pillar body bolts (upper and lower)
Decklid to Decklid Hinge bolts

This is the most complete kit available and uses all the correct fasteners, in the correct lengths and styles, includes a total of 92 pieces. For instance, check the lower fender stud slip-on nuts; we supply the correct long style so the stud is located in the correct factory location on the rocker. We have been assembling and using these kits for years in our in-house restoration facility and now are making them available.

These kits fit all the E Body mopars from 1970, 1971, 1972 1973 and 1974. Early 70 E Body hoods use a different bolt than 71-74, let us know if you have an early 70 car and we will include the correct fasteners!
$104.95
1970 to 1974 Mopar E-Body Fender Bolt Kit
Complete E Body Challenger Cuda Fender Bolt Fastener Kit SetThis kit has all the fasteners you need to install a pair of fenders onto your Mopar Classic Auto.

Includes 52 pieces: Dog Point Bolts, Slip on Nuts, Studs and captured washer nuts - All correct and complete. These are available in yellow zinc dichromate bolts and original OEM blask phosphate at no extra charge!

Each Kit comes with:

Upper Fender to Inner Fender slip-on nuts and dog point bolts with built in washer
Front core support to Fender slip on nuts and dog point bolts with built in washer
Lower Fender to rocker deep slip-on nuts, stud and washer with captured nut
Extra stud and nut for the upper fender bracket to cowl mount used only on the 1970 E Body (Challenger, Cuda, Barracuda)

This is the most complete kit available and uses all the correct fastners, in the correct lengths and styles, includes a total of 52 pieces. For instance, check the lower fender stud slip-on nuts; we supply the correct long style so the stud is located in the correct factory location on the rocker. We have been assembling and using these kits for years in our in-house restoration facility and now are making them available.

Several of the fastners are available both in the OEM black oxide finish and an updated zinc phosphate (gold color) finish. The zinc phosphate finish is much more durable, resists corrosion and takes paint better than the OEM black oxide. I normally ship the updated zinc phosphate finish for the bolts in this kit and have been using those for years. If you prefer the OEM black oxide, I will happily substitute those in the kit for you at no extra cost.

These kits fit all the E Body mopars from 1970 through 1974.
$54.99
71 Hemi Cuda Classic Vintage Retro Tee by artist Bruce Anliker Plymouth Mopar
This classic Gildan 6oz 100% cotton Tee Shirt features a vintage retro drawing by Bruce of an iconic '71 Hemi Cuda. The inspiration for this artwork is traced to the original car built by US CarTool for a well known Nascar driver. Gilled fenders and the famous Plymouth Cuda 426 Hemi bill boards announce to the world how this car came optioned from the factory. This particular car was then festooned with a set of one-off custom milled 20"Aluminum rims, a full US Car Tool chassis stiffening kit, a 528 inch fire breathing Hemi and a custom installed Viper 6 speed stick. If there was ever a car that needed a passenger side "chicken bar" hand hold, this is it. The car has go and whoa for the straights, and lets just say that the driver knows how to turn!

An avid car guy, Bruce has been drawing cars as long as he could hold a pencil. Yeah, he was that guy in school drawing cars in the margins of his notebook when he SHOULD have been paying attention to the teacher. It wasn’t long before friends started asking for renderings of their own cars, and viola, not paying attention in class started to pay off!

Bruce came by his love of cars honestly--his dad once had a collection numbering over 30 cars from Jaguars and Mercedes to Studebakers, Nashes and Kaisers. Many family vacations were spent on car “adventures” of all types--whether it was attending the Concours de Elegance at Lake Forest, IL in the family’s Jaguar Mk V drophead coupe (affectionately nicknamed "John Henry") or a long trek to drag home the latest restoration project, family life seemed to revolve around antique automobiles and antique car clubs.

Available in sizes from Small to 5XL Large and color White and Black. (sizes over 2XL and colors other than white have a small extra charge) These 100% cotton Tee's feel great, have the classic auto art Tee shirt fit and will actually make your car faster while you wear them! OK, that last bit may not be true, but you will feel faster!
$24.99
US Car Tool Deluxe Rotisserie
US Car Tool Auto Body Rotisserie
 
 
This is our Deluxe Rotisserie with roller bearings, 8 Caster wheels and hydraulic jacks. Rated to support up to 2,000 lbs, fully adjustable in height, width and length you can load almost any automobile body, pickup cab etc. onto the rotisserie and rotate it to work underneath without having to crawl on your back!
 
We have been building and using these rotisseries for 5 years. We are a professional restoration and fabrication shop and use them every day, so we know what works! These are designed to work in your shop and have several innovations that make them the best available. Roller Bearings in the Rotator Head We build the rotator head with tapered roller bearings and a machined axle assembly.
 
 This makes the US Car Tool Auto Body Rotisserie spin incredibly easy! We use two tapered roller bearings in each rotator head assembly (4 total in the complete rotisserie) to completely eliminate any play or movement in the rotating assembly and provide precise rotation about the axis. Nothing else comes close.
 
Totally modular
 
We designed the US Car Tool Auto Body Rotisserie to be completely modular and portable. No single piece is longer than 48 or weighs more than 35 lbs. The entire rotisserie disassembles into small pieces and can even be stored under a car when not in use. Several customers have taken them home in the back seat of their little economy car! One customer took one home from the Mopar Nats in the back seat of a Dodge Stratus, another picked his up here at our shop in a Geo Metro! They fit easily into the bed of a pickup truck with lots of room to spare!
 
Powdercoated
 
Since we began building and selling the US Car Tool Auto Body Rotisserie they have been powdercoated. It is my belief that selling, shipping and storing a plain steel tool will only lead to a rusty tool that will not be usable in a short period of time. It is a small extra expense, but one that I believe is absolutely necessary. Paint seems to get scratched quickly and we have spent considerable time evaluating various coatings. The powdercoat we use has a wrinkle finish and holds up incredibly well to the inevitable nicks any tool you actually use (grin!) will suffer. Standard is wrinkle black, but we can now offer them custom coated in any color you prefer.
Adjustable
 
The US Car Tool Rotisserie can be adjusted to any length. Our unique center bar design allows you to make the Rotisserie any length you need, continuously, from zero inches (the car attaching brackets touching!) to 20 apart. If you need to make it longer, you can add (optional) center bar pieces to achieve any lengths. There is a practical limit, but we have never found a car that would not fit!! The US Car Tool Rotisserie is also adjustable in width to accommodate any car attachment points and height adjustable to connect to your car body easily at rest and then raise to rotating height. This means to can attach to your car body while it is resting on jack stands and then raise it to the height you need to rotate it fully. We also use a four point center of gravity rotation adjustment system that allows easy adjustment of the rotation axis, which rarely lines up with the attachment points. By using a four point adjustment system, we can still correctly balance any car body, even if one corner has damage at the attachment point. This versatility is designed in!
 
Ease of use
 
Each US Car Tool Auto Body Rotisserie has several features that make it incredibly easy to actually use. We use them in our shop, we know how to make it work well. Below is a list of our features and how they make the US Car Tool Rotisserie easy to setup, use and store. Wheels You need wheels to move the rotisserie around, which seems simple enough! But wheels are not as simple as they appear. Caster wheels come in many varieties and weve tested a lot of them. What we have discovered can be broken down into three categories: (1)Wheel Diameter, (2) Solid or Pneumatic and (3)Caster or Fixed. Before I talk about using the wheels, lets talk quickly about NOT using the wheels.
 
When you are rotating the car body or working on the car body while it is mounted on the rotisserie you should remove the wheels. This allows the rotisserie to be flat on the floor at both ends and the entire center bar. The entire assembly will be much more stable and will not move when you push on the car! We realized that unbolting the caster wheels is tedious and would never happen, so we designed our wheel bracket system to be simple and easy. To remove the caster wheels, place a floor jack under the lower jack mount on one end of the rotisserie and lift that end just enough to have the caster wheels off the ground. Loosen the jam bolts that hold the bracket into the rotisserie base enough that you can slide the wheel bracket out (with the caster wheel still bolt to it!). Do the one on the other side and lower the rotisserie end onto the ground. Roll the jack to the other end and remove those in the same way.
 
Now the rotisserie is flat on the ground and very stable. If you want to store the wheels where you wont lose them, just slide them back into the rotisserie end with the wheels pointing up and tighten the jam bolts. BTW, some folks have even noticed that it would be very easy to have a second set of wheels and easily swap them, say between a set of solid (garage floor) wheels and a set of pneumatic wheels for being out in the mud bog (huh?). Wheel Diameter is important for several reasons. Larger wheels are easier to roll. They are easier to push, they are easier to turn and they go over bumps, cracks and the odd bolt left on the floor without catching. Another reason not often thought about until it is too late; smaller wheels do not lift the center bar of the rotisserie high enough off the ground and it will high center going up a ramp like into your enclosed car trailer!! Our deluxe rotisseries are shipped with 8 casters and go in and out of your trailer, up ramps etc. without high centering and getting stuck.
 
The solid vs. pneumatic dilemma has bothered us from the beginning. We have tested and tried a lot of pneumatic caster wheels and determined that they just do not stand up over time, so we ship most of our rotisseries with a solid caster wheel. We use the solid caster in our shop and still take car bodies to the media blaster and the paint shop, roll them around in the gravel driveways and never have problems. If you really want to take the rotisserie for a walk on the beach, we can supply a 12 pneumatic caster wheel (no warranty), but we encourage most customers to get the 8 solid caster. They cost less and last longer. Makes simple sense yes? You can also choose between a solid steel caster and a solid rubber tire caster. We use the solid steel caster in our shop, but some prefer the rubber tire version (still solid), call and well help you decide which is best for you! Using swiveling caster wheels vs. fixed wheels is something that is asked about often. Some folks think that having 4 swiveling caster wheels will make it easier to maneuver the rotisserie around in a tight shop. The thought of rolling the loaded rotisserie sideways to move it over is indeed intriguing.
 
The reality of using 4 swiveling caster wheels is that you need two people to move it ! When you push one end left, the other end will move to the right (unless you have a helper holding that end). And when you try to push it straight one end will roll to the left while the other is rolling right. Weve done it and it is a pain. If you really want 4 swivel caster wheels, that is how we will pack it, but our standard is to ship 2 swivel casters and 2 fixed casters. Youll be happier!! Rotating height You can easily spin most cars under an 8 ceiling height, but it is the width of the car that drives the size requirement. The very first rotisserie I built was for a garage that had a garage door opener that was 7 off the ground. With the rotisserie flat on the floor (I removed the wheels when working and spinning) I had a 1970 Dodge Superbee mounted and I was able to rotate the car about 80 degrees. Not quite vertical, but enough that I could do the entire floor work without lying on my back under the car! Attaching your car The brackets we supply will work for most popular cars, Mopars, Ford Mustang, Chevy Camaros etc. Weve hung almost every car you can imagine, so if you have something unique just give a call. If you send a picture and dimensions, well make a set of brackets for you and add them to our catalog of brackets.
 
Frequently asked questions
 
How much does it cost to ship them to xxx zip code The US Car Tool Auto Body Rotisserie is a large tool and weighs 500lbs on the shipping pallet. They ship via truck freight and we have negotiated a deal with Yellow Freight to deliver them via their freight system at a substantial discount. The requirements are a commercial address or the nearest Yellow Freight depot. We get a 60% discount off the shipping rate, you can check the rates at www.YRC.com and the Rotisseries ship from zip code 27703, Durham NC. If you can find a better way to ship, well be happy to load it onto any truck, trailer etc.!
 
Can you bring it to xyz show so I can save the cost of shipping? In a word, No. We do not attend many shows and are not equipped to move freight around during a car show or swap meet. You are welcome to come pick up the Rotisserie at our shop in Durham NC and save the cost of truck freight. Can I buy one cheaper if it is not powdercoated? Part of our manufacturing process is having the parts powdercoated in bulk. While we can separate your rotisserie parts from a batch, handle it uniquely and not powdercoat it, it actually takes us additional time to do so. Because we do so many parts in bulk, we have a screaming deal on getting parts powdercoated and there is not much cost saving it leaving them in bare steel. Some customers have had unique requirements (Pushing them into an oven etc.) and we will build one without powdercoating, but unfortunately, the extra time and labor negates the savings, so there is no cost adjustment by having it made in bare steel, sorry.
 
Can I get one powdercoated in any other color than wrinkle black? We get requests for custom colors and we can have yours done in any standard color for an extra $200. Call to discuss the color you want. If you want something common like Tool Box Red, we can handle that, if you want a very custom color you may have to send a sample for a quote from the powdercoater.
 
Does the Rotisserie come with a warranty? Yes. The Rotisserie has a lifetime warranty on materials and workmanship, the jacks and caster wheels carry manufacturers warranties of 1 year each. We also have an upgrade program for owners of older models that want to get the new bearing rotator head, just give a call and we can get your rotisserie updated.
 
Do you rent rotisseries? Yes we have a rental program, but because of the shipping costs it is mostly for folks local enough to come and pickup / drop off but we will rent a rotisserie to anyone. The rental program is $100 per month. You purchase the rotisserie and tell us you want to be in the rental program. We collect the full price of the rotisserie, plus the shipping costs and send one of our rental units to you. When you have finished using the rental rotisserie, return it to us and we will credit you the cost of the rotisserie, minus the $100 per month rental fee. Simple.
 
Do you sell used rotisseries ? No, we do not sell them used. We do sell them in kit form for folks who want to fabricate one themselves, you can find them in our online store or on ebay.
$2,199.00
US Car Tool Uni-Lift Unibody Front End lifting tool
The US Car Tool Uni-Lift allows the front end of your 1966 to 1975 Mopar A/B/E Body to be lifted over 5' in the air for easy installation or removal of the front suspension. The Uni-lift bolts to the front bumper mounts on the front frame rails and is CNC machine cut with the bolt patterns for Mopar A, B & E bodies. Other patterns can be accommodated with a simple modification. The Uni-lift comes Powdercoated and is fully adjustable to fit any car body. Requires an engine hoist (not included) to safely lift the front of your car body with the rear tires on the ground. Combine this tool with our US Car Tool K-Frame stand for a great restoration engine installation experience!! Hoist and Car not included (smile).

Call us if your car is not listed here.
$174.00
62-65 B Body - US Car Tool Uni-Lift Unibody Front End lifting tool
The US Car Tool Uni-Lift allows the front end of your 1962 to 1965 Mopar early B Body to be lifted over 5' in the air for easy installation or removal of the front suspension. The Uni-lift bolts to the front bumper mounts on the front frame rails and is CNC machine cut with the bolt patterns for Mopar A, B & E bodies. Other patterns can be accommodated with a simple modification. The Uni-lift comes Powdercoated and is fully adjustable to fit any car body. Requires an engine hoist (not included) to safely lift the front of your car body with the rear tires on the ground. Combine this tool with our US Car Tool K-Frame stand for a great restoration engine installation experience!! Hoist and Car not included (smile).

Call us if your car is not listed here.
$174.00
US Car Tool U-weld-it Rotisserie Kit
The kit is complete with everything you need to construct our AutoBody Rotisserie except for the square steel tubing you purchase locally, then cut and weld together yourself. Kit contains: CNC Machine cut steel parts (all the steel, except the square tubing) complete set of CAD drawings Steel Cut List Custom illustrated build notes Rottisserie instruction pack Grade 5 & 8 hardware machined bearing races machined axles tapered roller bearings Supplier information for Hydraulic Jack Rams and Caster Wheels These are the exact same components and methods we use to construct the assembled rotisserie in our shop. To complete the kit, you will need the following square steel tubing (you purchase locally) 30 feet of 2.5" sq x 3/16 wall 14 feet of 2.0" sq x 3/16 wall 38 feet of 2.0" sq x 1/8 wall Each US Car Tool Rotisserie has the following features: Roller Bearings - Rotator head using tapered roller bearings - Super easy rotation! Unique lock ring for positive stop every 3 degrees of rotation Modular - easy to store in a corner or even under a car! Adaptable - will convert to a car dolly to roll body around your shop or garage Engineered for a 2000lb load - will handle your restoration needs Full technical support, before or after your purchase We can help you with brackets for YOUR car!!
$399.00
US Car Tool Mopar Front End Rebuild
Complete Spindle to Spindle Rebuild service
  • Complete Disassemble & strip to bare metal
  • Inspect and repair (weld K-frame etc.)
  • Powdercoat and/or detail to factory OEM appearance
  • All new Bushings, Ball joints, Tie rod ends, bump stops
  • your choice of OEM rubber or Poly
  • Assemble, ready for installation and final torque

Options:
  • Tubular Upper Control Arms $400
  • Sway Bar - add $125
  • Torsion Bars - add $75
  • Brake rebuild service - price based on application
  • New LCA Pivots $65
  • New torsion bar adjusters $75
  • New Brake Strut Rods Steel $120 (powdercoated)
  • New Brake Strut Rods Aluminum $ $150 (natural)
$1,799.00